Argentina/Chile re-cap

[detlef]

OK, so just got back from two weeks in South America. Flew into Santiago, took a bus over the Andes to Argentina, returned to Santiago, and flew home. The main reason for the trip was to visit Mendoza as the guest of an importer. Here's what I learned:

 

1) I like Peruvian Pisco Sours better than Chilean ones. Not so much because of the pisco itself, but because of the little Peruvian limes and the fact that they add bitters. Chilean ones don't. You can acually get those limes in Latin markets around here and, I'd guess, in plenty of other areas. However, the way they juice them is interesting. They have really thin skins and they just cut a few of them in half, put them in a blender with a bit of water, and blend the living hell out of them before pouring the resulting juice through a fine strainer. That way you get the flavor of the zest as well. From there, the drniks are similar. Pisco, sugar, lime juice, egg whites, and ice, shaken like hell for a good long time and strained into a flute.

 

2) If you go to Chile, eat the fish. This much should be obvious. Amazing sushi and cebiche were had all over. We ate at three nice restaurants. Bar Liguira, where we had great fish cheeks braised in wine and chile, Mestizos where we met some wine reps from Cono Sur and had lovely grilled octopus, abalone carpaccio, and Patagonia-style lamb shank along with an amazing Sauv Blanc (Cono Sur 20 Barrels) and Syrah (again 20 Barrels), and a place called Etniko, where we had some corvina cebiche and some nice sushi. Etniko was a bit disco but the food was certainly nice.

 

3) I came to Argentina thinking Malbec and found Cab Sauv. It's understandible that they've rested their hats on Malbec because it's ripe and likeable, but the Cabs we tasted down there were sexy, nuanced, and very regal. Also, I didn't really try a Torrontes that floored me and only one Sauv Blanc that I liked (but didn't love). The only whites I think worth drinking from Argentina are the Chards and Catena Alta, in particular is an amazing wine. When I asked the lovely young wine maker we were sharing our tasting with how well they held up, she said her current favorite is the 97. So, apparently they do. On a side note, it seems like you need to be female and either smoking hot or at least very cute. Which is not a bad thing, especially when most of the women at the facility are all walking around in these sort of tunic like uniforms. Lends a Star Trek, Planet of the hotties theme to the whole thing especially given the unique architecture.

 

4) Argentine cured meats are amazing but they like their meat well done. Somehow, in many cases, it's still tasty regardless. Sort of odd but true.

 

5) Why in the cuff does everyone eat so freaking late? Seriously, go to dinner at 9pm and, if there's anyone else at the restaurant at all, it's another freaking American like you. Place just starts to fill up by 10:30. I know, it's a latin thing because the same was true in Spain.

 

6) It's not, by any stretch, cheap. Hotel rooms that were no better than decent were $150-$200. A decent lunch, $50-60 for two and dinner with a bottle of mid-priced wine, two apps, two entrees is about $120 pre-tip. Same meal at one of my places, in the good old USA would set you back less.

 

7) Every bar in Argentina pours Fernet and Coke. Argentina drinks more Fernet than any other country, including Italy, where the stuff comes from. It's an aquired taste, sort of like bitter Jagermeister, but I sort of dig it and it does go down well with Coke.

 

Wine highlights (besides those mentioned already)

 

All the Catena Alta and higher level wines were stunning, but should be given the fact that they retail for $40-$150.

The Atamisque family of wines (Atamisque, Catalpa, and Serbal) are impressive but I'd stick to the whites at the Serbal line and, again, the Cabs and cab blend really stole the show for me.

Hinojosa makes some really good, every day wines. Look for Barracas, Don Salvatore, and Hinojosa (The un-oaked Salvatore Chard is pretty nice and the "H" Malbec is a great $15 retail bottle of Malbec.

Chacaras was the last place we visited and I'm afraid I was a bit run-down by that point in the trip but these might have been the best of the lot. From the Cavas de Crianza to the Clos de Chacaras line to the Grand Estipe (sp?) stuff, it's all small-production, hand-made and really impressive. I think the 09s and 10s are going to be stunning.

 

Random adventures:

 

Walked out of the subway station in Santiago to find a tank with a water gun hosing down a bunch of demonstrators and a bunch of cops in riot gear marching them back. Seconds later, realized there was tear gas in the air because both of our eyes started burning. Doesn't happen much around here, so that was sort of interesting.

 

Checked out closing night at the Fiesta de Vendimia, which is their harvest festival. Brought a case of wine and a bunch of empanadas in, sat in an amphitheater and saw was really a stunning show with perhaps the best fireworks I'd ever seen. Really kind people all around passing each other food and drink. Really a special experience.

[Bier Meister]

[bpwallace49]

[RC94]

Awesome post! I would have liked to see your thoughts on food in Brazil too. One of my favorite restaurants in NYC is a Brazilian restaurant (and I'm not talking about a steakhouse, which are also great), so I would like to see how that compares to the food in the actual country.

 

I have heard Buenos Aries described as the "Paris of South America". Did you find that to be the case?

[detlef]

Awesome post! I would have liked to see your thoughts on food in Brazil too. One of my favorite restaurants in NYC is a Brazilian restaurant (and I'm not talking about a steakhouse, which are also great), so I would like to see how that compares to the food in the actual country.

 

I have heard Buenos Aries described as the "Paris of South America". Did you find that to be the case?

 

only hit Santiago and Mendoza, so I can't comment on Brazil or Buenos Aires. For that matter, I've never been to Paris.

[matt770]

How was Ecuador? Hopefully you visited Chaupi Estancia, excellent wine there.

[nogohawk]