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Changing Brakes


Swashbucklers
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Don't fool around with brakes if you don't know what you're doing is always my suggestions.  It's not like they're important :D.

 

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Replacing the pads is not hard. Blleeding air out of the brake lines is tricky if you haven't done it before and/or don't have the proper tools. I heartily recommend taking it to a professional.

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You can get pads and rotors for peanuts. If you can compress the piston in the caliper( big c clamp works) with the reservoir open you wont have to bleed them after . Get the manual for your car. Do one wheel at a time, so you can use the other for a reference. Take it to the shop if you don't feel cummfy doing it or don't have basic wrenching ability. I figure I save at least 2-300 $ by doing them for myself. Good luck.

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You may need special tools, you can get a brake job for $59-89, check your sunday paper for coupons, and just have the basic job done. Don't worry about turning rotors or anything unless you have significant wobblyness due to brakes, and wobblyness could be a bad/underinflated tire.

 

Get a coupon, pay the $50, and don't listen to them tell you all the schit your car needs. Bridgestone/Firestone is an example of a place who will do something pratically for free just to get you in the door.

 

Do not go to dealer.

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Last time I did it was about 1995.  It was easy then, I even switched out a brake caliper. 

 

Dunno if it's easy now, I have the shop do it.

 

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last time I did it was 1968! Had the drums turned, shoes arced, almost lost an eye when the spring jumped at me, but all turned out fine. If you have anit-lock brakes I believe that adds additional problems. Not worth it. todays' cars are too complicated and you wanna mess w/ the biggest potential killer??? :D

Read below......

 

 

You may need special tools, you can get a brake job for $59-89, check your sunday paper for coupons, and just have the basic job done.  Don't worry about turning rotors or anything unless you have significant wobblyness due to brakes, and wobblyness could be a bad/underinflated tire.

 

Get a coupon, pay the $50, and don't listen to them tell you all the schit your car needs.  Bridgestone/Firestone is an example of a place who will do something pratically for free just to get you in the door.

 

Do not go to dealer.

 

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good advice!

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Don't buy semi metallic pads. Only ceramic or dealer pads. If you do it yourself always take the rotors somewhere to be turned.

 

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I always buy semi metallic and never turn the rotors unless you've been driving on metal on metal breaks for a while.

 

Pads are pretty easy.

 

You'll need:

 

A socket set to take out the two longer bolts.

C Clamp to compress Caliper as mentioned.

Screwdriver, never know when you might need to clean something out or pry something out like those two bolts.

WD 40 could help also if this bolts are tough.

 

I might be missing something about the tools.

 

Tips:

 

Turn the tire to the right when you are doing the right and vice versa when you are doing the left.

 

As someone mentioned make sure you have the other one in tact when you are doing the other so you can look at it if necessary.

 

Open your break fluid compartment when compressing the caliper, again as mentioned before.

 

I would try and find someone who knows what there doing though to help you do it for the first few times and after that it should be no problem.

 

If you do take it in as H8 suggests do not let them talk you into anything else. They'll mention rotors and possibly calipers of course but they'll also throw things like bearings / tie rods (sp?) / shocks etc... your way. I say let it ride with just pads.

 

Hope that helps. If not just call AAA. :D

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Don't buy semi metallic pads. Only ceramic or dealer pads. If you do it yourself always take the rotors somewhere to be turned.

 

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Good info here. Bought a set of ceramic pads for the last brake job I did and I like them.

 

edit: I do my brakes myself on my vehicles. But I'm not sure how hard they are on the Altimas. Check the local library to see if they have a manual for your year car. If you think it is too involved, then take it to a shop.

Edited by Gunther
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The Altima is an easy brake job. That is if you know what your doing. I agree that if your unsure then take it to the shop. Find a good honest independant shop to do the job and you should be OK.

Have the Rotors resurfaced as they mate to the new pads alot better that way. The grooves left from the old pads will cause you brake squeek if you dont do this. Also rotors get glazed after many miles on a set of pads and that reduces your braking power!

 

You should expect to pay somewhere in the area of 200 for a front brake job. This depends on the area you live and is counting on you only needing Pads and resurfacing of the rotors.

As far as pads go I do like the ceramic pads but the semi metallics are ok. Not sure why others wouldnt like them. We have been using Raybestos semi's for years and have no problems with performance or life expectancy!

 

Remember like anything else, you get what you pay for and with brakes I just dont see the reasoning for going CHEAP!

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At this point, I need to save some money and I think that I need new front brakes on my '02 Altima.  Does anyone know if it is easy or not?  About all I can do is change a flat and put gas in it.

 

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My background: I used to change the oil in my 1979 Ford Pickup because it was easy and I didn't need to jack it up. I did it in the parking lot in college. That is the extent of my auto repair experience. I'm relatively mechanically inclined.

 

I bought a Haynes repair manual for my wife's 2001 Chrysler T&C and successfuly changed the front pads and rotors. Rears are in need right now. I also used that book to replace a broken tie rod end and a sway bar link arm. I am still experiencing some knocking in the front end and found out it is the sway bar bushings. Two little $5 rubber bushings that isolate the sway bar from the frame. They wear. I guess it's a 2 hour job, so I'm waiting for the weather to clear up. I took it to the dealer and they quoted $1100 worth of repair 6 months ago. I've got $300 invested and it rides like new. If you're like me, you won't know how to diagnose the problem because of lack of experience, but are willing to try anything to avoid a dealership... go for it.

 

Haynes gives you hints on jacking, tools needed, etc. It's really much better than the Chilton.

 

Good luck.

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Brakes are about as simple as it gets for repair work,but I'm not someone that has zero experience should tackle it.

 

But I replaced the front brake pads,calipers,rotors,drums,rear brake pads and cylinders all for about $200 in my 91 Blazer.Basically a brand new brake system.

 

If all you're doing is the front brakes,assuming the rotors only need turned,you can do it next for mothing.When you have the rotor off,it's also a good time to look at the wheel bearing.Grease is cheap.

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Pads (and even rotors) on a front-drive vehicle are cake. As has been said above, the C-clamp and socket set (I don't think Nissan uses torx-head caliper pins) and you're set. Except the jack and stands, of course.

 

Once you get the calipers off, the rotors should just slip off from around the lug bolts. If there is an Auto Zone near, they used to turn rotors for $6 or $7 per, but that probably isn't needed unless you feel some pretty good steering-wheel shimmy when the brake is applied. Decent brake pads will probably run $40 or so, and like t-bimm, I've never had problem with semi-metallics, though the ceramics, IMO, are usually worth the dough. You probably won't be able to get to the wheel bearings. They're pressed in, usually, on front-drive cars.

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Seems like some good info on here ... I've done it before and did rear brakes on my vehicle back in december. Had to change rotors, caliper on one side and pads on both. Wasn't bad, although I have done it before. Only thing I don't do is the bleeding the lines so I had a friend help with those. If you are mechanically inclined and only need to change the pads, that is not a big deal.

 

One thing ... if you have a rusty bolt it was mentioned to spray it with WD40 first. PB Blaster ... white can with yellow, black on it and a black cap I think works quite a bit better. Just make sure to wipe any off the rotor if you get some on there while spraying.

 

If you don't feel comfortable and don't know anyone who does that can help out, then find a decent shop to have it done, just make sure they don't say you need everything replaced when you really don't.

 

Good luck.

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