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Posts posted by geeteebee

  1. Cheapest way while staying on the interstates is 94 to 90 to 39 to 80 to 69. There will still be a toll when entering Illinois and when 80 merges with 294.


    Problem is that 80/90 in mostly all toll in Indiana


    And say hi to Cunning Runt while in Fort Worth. :shades:



    Although TCU's home would love to have him, I doubt he wants to go that far out of his way.

  2. Depends on how much you own. Some pink sheet stocks have decent volume. And, yes, I would classify them as gambling. Wild swings are not unusual. Beware of pump and dumps with them. They can make for good trading opportunities, but you have to be quick.

  3. My bad, I first read it as having to pick the top scoring players all 16 weeks to win the million. So, potentially they could give out as much as $16 million, correct? That I might try, but the odds on winning are still nuts.


    No. Potentially they could pay out a bajillion dollars. If every owner picked the same lineup and those starters were the highest scorers at their position that week, then each owner would get $1MM.

  4. Project is complete. Here are a few helpful tidbits for those of you who run into this issue in the future.


    1. None of the guys on this site know anything.

    2. Listen to Bunz, she knows all.

    3. When removing pieces of plumbing, it is wise to shut off the water beforehand.

    4. If 3. above is ignored, it is wise to have towels handy.

    5. If 3. and 4. above are ignored, it is wise to have a change of clothes handy.

    6. The hot water that comes straight out of the pipe doesn’t start out hot, but gets very hot very quickly.

    7. When removing screws from a valve that is recessed in the wall, you should stuff a towel or something in the hole so when one of said screws falls it doesn’t disappear.

    8. If 7. above is ignored, magnets on a long string are about the only way to retrieve said screws. However, said string must be strong enough to dislodge the magnet when it gets stuck on the brackets holding the copper pipe. If it isn’t, you will need a larger magnet on a heavier string to recoup the previously used magnet along with the screw.

    9. One of those dentist mirrors is a great tool when trying to fish for a screw that has fallen down a hole that you can’t look directly into.

    10. After learning your lesson and using a towel to fill the hole in the wall prior to removing the screws for the second time, it is wise to close the drain prior to removing the screws.

    11. Screws that fall in the drain cannot be retrieved with a magnet and are lost forever.

    12. Removing a diverter requires significant leverage and very little room to work, DO NOT use a hammer to hit the wrench or else you may strip the head of the diverter when the wrench repeatedly slips.

    13. When you take the previously fine, now damaged, diverter to the plumbing supply store and explain the problem, believe them when they tell you it doesn’t sound like it is the diverter and is most likely the cartridge in the valve.

    14. Buy the cartridge instead of thinking you’ll take your chances with the diverter because you can just run back to the plumbing supply store tomorrow (Saturday) if the new diverter doesn’t solve the problem.

    15. Call the plumbing supply store prior to going there on a Saturday because apparently plumbing supplies aren’t needed on Saturdays.

    16. When installing a new valve cylinder, make sure you read the directions. If you don’t, you will get running water when there shouldn’t be any and hot water when it should be cold.

    17. Make sure you turn the water back on prior to replacing the cover plate and recaulking around it.


    I don’t know how much more could have gone wrong, but at least it is fixed. Bunz was right that the cartridge in the valve was the culprit and this model can’t be cleaned out so I needed a new one. Hopefully if I have this problem again, it won’t take so long to fix. By the way, plumbing work is a great way to spend time with your kids. My 4 year old wouldn't leave my side and enjoyed handing me my tools. He got a kick out of the colorful words his daddy used and even said when he grows up he wants to be a shower fixer guy.

  5. No manifold in the basement that takes the supply from the street and splits it up to separate supply lines (with shut offs) going upstairs either? If not, yeah, AFIK the whole house shut off is your best bet.


    No basements in Texas. I have a handle in the garage that will turn off everything. That is why I was interested to know if those two screws on the side of the shower valve would turn off the water to the shower.

  6. Hopefully you have an accessible shut off for the shower or bathroom somewhere. Mine is behind a panel in a closet next to the shower for example.


    I don't have anything like that. The only shutoffs I have are under the sink and behind the toilet. The bedroom and closet that adjoin the bathroom don't have any panels.

  7. One thing you might try if its not to late is adjusting the shut off valves on the left and right of the main valve. Use a screwdriver to adjust them to see if it helps with the pressure.



    I'll give that a try...This comment brings up another question. I was planning on having to turn off the main water line to the house because I didn't know how else to ensure water wouldn't come out when I took the valve apart. Will these screws do the trick instead?

  8. I'm just asking you to remove screws and unscrew/pull all the 'innards' out from the valve (that is soldered to the pipes). The real trick to this is keeping all parts set aside in the order they came out! lol If you can read the model of the faucet assembly, you can find a manual for it that will show it to you "exploded" and label all the part numbers. Easier to know what you'll need to replace.


    It will also tell you what valve you have. Some of those parts will be integral to the faucet assembly, some to the valve.


    Sounds like you'll be able to find some crud right away though. Be careful with any rubber O-rings....warm soap and water, maybe a soft toothbrush.


    The two screws on the escutcheon plate hold the plate onto the valve. They are very long. If you have an older setup, there should be a screw under a cap on the handle. Take your time....use towels to shield the finish from any tool scratches. (Too late for that diverter).


    Call me if you need to GTB. :wacko:



    Thank you so much for all the guidance. I'll work on cleaning out the valve tonight. This is the valve I have. The diverter looks to be part of the entire setup which may explain why it was so difficult to remove. Do you have any idea if the diverter will be easy to find? I've emailed the manufacturer but haven't heard back.

  9. Well.....I've got a different take on this. I'm not sure it is the diverter at all. Water and pipes naturally produce corrosion and stir up little tiny flaked minerals when they sit unused for a time. They dislodge the next time you use the valve. Just like you need to clean out the screen and aerator in sink faucets and showerheads once in a while.


    A single handle faucet allows you to go from all warm...then to hot by starting with the cold side fully open and the hot fully closed, to varying the aperatures to your desired temp. Since your pressure drops as you get warmer, I think the hot water pipe is either clogged, or the opening in the valve that lets hot water into the mix is clogged. The diverter won't work below a certain pressure. Since it works with cold fully on, I don't think it's the diverter.


    Look up the model you have from the manufacturer and get a blown out schematic in the manual. You will also be able to take the valve apart and clean or replace any part you need to. SHUT the water off to that shower to do this. :wacko:


    Depending on what type of valve you have, I think you'll find some sort of blockage on the hot water side. Could be a deteriorated O-ring, or mineral deposits. What kind of faucet/shower valve is it?


    I wish I had seen this last night...:tup:. The diverter is currently off after much effort. And the way the I mangled the head of it to get it off, I'll need a new one regardless.


    Regarding the valve (I am at work and can't see it right now) I believe it is welded onto the pipes. Will I need to cut it off? If so, I'm out of my league and will need to call a pro. However, I believe there were some screws on the front of it. If I just need to remove the screws to clean it out, I can probably handle.

  10. My first guess would be the diverter that from the way I understand it thats on your tub spout. I think when its on low temp the pressure of the cold water keeps it activated but not with the hot. You can repair the diverter depending on what type it is. As someone said the spout usually screws off but can be diffucult. Some are held on by an allen screw under the bottom. Pics would help.



    Okay, Idon't think I've explained the hardware correctly. The bath spout is at the bottom and does not have a diverter on it. Above that (at waist level), I have a plate on the wall. That plate has a handle that rotates counter clockwise to increase the water temperture. Below the handle, but still on the plate, I have a little knob that protrudes from the plate/wall. This is what I pull to start the shower. The diverter works if I haven't turned the temperture handle around very far, but once I turn it to get very hot water, the water pressure drops a little and the diverter releases and the shower turns back into a bath.

  11. Sounds like the diverter is wearing out. You can actually unscrew the tub spout and replace it with a new one. You typically do not need to turn the water off for this.



    This shower is rarely used and has probably only been used 50 times total. Is it possible that the diverter is installed incorrectly or needs adjustment? I just find it hard to believe it has gone bad after such little use.