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Input from hunters welcome / needed


muck
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Polk,

 

I'll take my .270 WSM any day over your .308. At 400 yds my velocity is almost 25% greater than yours, I have over 600 ft-lbs of energy more than you do at 400 yards. My bullet will drop 12.8 inches at 400 yards, your is going to drop 24.8 inches. I had really thought that your .308 would be cheaper to shoot, and it might be for target rounds, but for what I use for hunting I'm cheaper. Federal Vital-Shok, you are actually more expensive at $57.39 a box vs my $52.45.

 

Do you believe that the extra velocity translates directly to more killing power? Do you not agree that even a .308 is way more than necessary to cleanly kill East Texas Whitetail? My buddy with the 257 also has a 300RUM. Do you want to compare the 270WSM to that thing? No, of course you don't because obviously a 270WSM is way more than enough to kill whitetails.

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Do you believe that the extra velocity translates directly to more killing power? Do you not agree that even a .308 is way more than necessary to cleanly kill East Texas Whitetail? My buddy with the 257 also has a 300RUM. Do you want to compare the 270WSM to that thing? No, of course you don't because obviously a 270WSM is way more than enough to kill whitetails.

 

I can use my .270 WSM to kill deer. If there should ever be civil unrest, I can sit up on the roof of my house and pick people off at 600 yards fairly easily. :wacko:

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I can use my .270 WSM to kill deer. If there should ever be civil unrest, I can sit up on the roof of my house and pick people off at 600 yards fairly easily. :D

 

K i guess i made my point :wacko:

 

Do you want to buy his a-bolt 300RUM by any chance? He has seen the light and wants to sell it and buy a .308.

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K i guess i made my point :wacko:

 

Do you want to buy his a-bolt 300RUM by any chance? He has seen the light and wants to sell it and buy a .308.

 

I got the .270 WSM for the long West Texas shots, and it really doesn't kick any harder than the .30-06 I grew up on. Since I don't think I'm going to get to go bear hunting anytime soon, I really don't need something as big as a 300RUM, but if the price is right, I might be willing to take it off his hands.

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Are Remington actions better than Lazzeroni? They must not be since the Marines don't use them.....

 

Let's assume for a minute you are correct and the difference is .2 MOA. Do you feel that you can maximize the ability of a .5 MOA rifle? Do you think Muck can? Do you think the difference in .2" at 100 yds is worth a grand?

 

Lazzeroni rifles are very high end and cost around $5k. I am surprised the military doesn't buy Lazzeroni or Lapua rifles only to throw everything away but the action. :D

 

Most Remington rifles cost around $750 - I consider it in the same class as the $300-400 Savage.

 

I don't know what's got your nose so bent out of joint. My fist recommendation to Muck was a .308 and I've said nothing derogatory about Savage rifles. I own one and love it. :wacko:

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Lazzeroni rifles are very high end and cost around $5k. I am surprised the military doesn't buy Lazzeroni or Lapua rifles only to throw everything away but the action. :D

 

Most Remington rifles cost around $750 - I consider it in the same class as the $300-400 Savage.

 

I don't know what's got your nose so bent out of joint. My fist recommendation to Muck was a .308 and I've said nothing derogatory about Savage rifles. I own one and love it. :wacko:

 

My nose isn't bent, im just making a point.

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My nose isn't bent, im just making a point.

 

If the point you're making is that the Savage is the best bang for the buck out there, I'll agree with you. But it's certainly not the BEST rifle available. Like Jimmy said, the law of diminishing returns applies everywhere. That's why I seconded your recommendation on the Savage in .308 (I wouldn't buy that combo though, I'd stick something like a Leopold vari-X 3 in 4-12 power/40mm objective on the gun and you're still cheaper than the Remington 700 by itself). I would also second the .308 Win chambering, because it's cheap, plentiful, mild recoil, accurate, etc. And since the more you shoot the better you'll get, being cheap and without sharp recoil means he'll be able to practice more. :wacko:

 

I'm also not a fan of the magnum caibers unless I'm going to shoot consistently at ranges over 300-350 yards. In fact, if I had the scratch to buy some wicked custom rifle I'd probably have it chambered in something like 6.5X55 Swede. You want to talk about a flat-shooting cartridge, that's a winner right there.

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Another option is the Weatherby Vanguard. You can pick them up for right around $400 and they are a fine rifle. My dad has one in .223 (I think ) that is absolutely incredible. It shoots better than I can hold it.

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...looking at the Savage stuff online...

 

I believe I have figured out (basically) what a 'hinged floorplate' and a 'detachable box magazine' are ... why would I want one over the other? Or, should I go with the internal magazine?

 

Do I want a 'muzzlebreak' or no?

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...looking at the Savage stuff online...

 

I believe I have figured out (basically) what a 'hinged floorplate' and a 'detachable box magazine' are ... why would I want one over the other? Or, should I go with the internal magazine?

 

Do I want a 'muzzlebreak' or no?

 

Unless you are going into combat a fixed box is what you want as reloading a bolt-action after 4 shots is not something you are likely to do. I guess, no I can't imagine a scenario in which you would need to reload. So my point is that this is not something to concern yourself with other than the fact you need to try and stay with fixed box magazines if at all possible. The magazine detaching is probably the least important thing on the entire weapon. You definitely do not want a muzzle break unless you go away from everything that has been said in this thread and get a .300 Winchester or larger. With a .308 or even a 30-06 all a muzzle break does is make the guns several times louder while reducing recoil from "very light" to "almost none".

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...looking at the Savage stuff online...

 

I believe I have figured out (basically) what a 'hinged floorplate' and a 'detachable box magazine' are ... why would I want one over the other? Or, should I go with the internal magazine?

 

Do I want a 'muzzlebreak' or no?

 

Polk is right about this. I wouldn't bother with a detachable box magazine, but consider a hinged floorplate. They are easier/safer to unload than a fixed magazine.

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Savavge rifle models under consideration (all are 308s with 'accu-trigger' and 22" barrels):

 

16FHSS -- sug ret $755

6.9lbs

hinged floorplate

synthetic accu-stock

stainless barrel

 

16FSS -- sug ret $678

6.5lbs

internal box

black synthetic

stainless barrel

 

14 Classic -- sug ret $826

7.5lbs

hinged floorplate

walnut stock

matte metal barrel

 

11FNS -- sug ret $591

6.5lbs

internal box

black synthetic

blued barrel

 

11FHNS -- sug ret $656

6.9lbs

hinged floorplate

synthetic accu-stock

blued barrel

 

11GNS -- sug ret $618

6.75lbs

internal box

walnut stock

blued barrel

 

...buying a gun with an internal box means I can't really use 'pointy' bullets (except maybe the Hornaday bullets)...should I care?

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...buying a gun with an internal box means I can't really use 'pointy' bullets (except maybe the Hornaday bullets)...should I care?

 

no, you can use any style bullet with a box, it is the tube mags that give trouble

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Polk is right about the mag - you can shoot whatever you want out of a bolt gun, regardless of the type of magazine.

 

As said before, it's tough to go wrong with a Savage. I really enjoy the accu-trigger on my .17 HMR. It's very easy to shoot well and fully adjustable by the user.

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It was a cold and windy day, so working in the yard was out. The kids had gone to a movie with some friends, so we were killing time. We decided to go buy my youngest a .22. I go in just to get a Ruger 10/22, and walk out with the Ruger, and a Kimber Custom II in SS. :wacko:

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It was a cold and windy day, so working in the yard was out. The kids had gone to a movie with some friends, so we were killing time. We decided to go buy my youngest a .22. I go in just to get a Ruger 10/22, and walk out with the Ruger, and a Kimber Custom II in SS. :D

 

I walked into Gander Mountain to see if they had any cheap ammo and noticed they have a bunch of riles on clearance. I walked out with a Handi-Rifle in 44 mag :D . They had if for 250 which is 50 off asking price. I just bought a piece of land here and I need something where I am unlikely to have a stray leave the tract and hit someone 1/4 mile away. It is a really cool rifle though. I can change calibers for $87.00 and even add shotgun and muzzleloader barrels. I'm about to order a 45-70 and 223 barrel monday. With shipping the total :wacko: will be less than $200. It is sort of a white trash weapon system and will serve as Jr.'s first big rifle. I can't wait to shoot. it as I have no idea what to expect as far as recoil and noise.

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I had really thought that your .308 would be cheaper to shoot, and it might be for target rounds, but for what I use for hunting I'm cheaper. Federal Vital-Shok, you are actually more expensive at $57.39 a box vs my $52.45.

 

308 Vital-Shok = as little as $30.53 (per one website I saw that had a few boxes at that price)

.270 Vital-Shok = as little as $36.44 (at the same website)

 

...fwiw...

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