Chief Dick Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 (edited) Seed in the fall, ESPECIALLY if your lawn gets a lot of sun. Do pre-emergent now. And water once a week, a deep watering. (an inch of water) Watering a little every day does not promote deep root growth, as Hat Trick said. Edited March 23, 2007 by Chief Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh 0ne Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 Seed in the fall, ESPECIALLY if your lawn gets a lot of sun. Do pre-emergent now. What is this pre-emergent you speak of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmarc117 Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 the seeding im doing is on a city lot, so basically all shade for most of the day. bought the shady seed and starter fertilizer. does it need anything else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh 0ne Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 the seeding im doing is on a city lot, so basically all shade for most of the day. bought the shady seed and starter fertilizer. does it need anything else? You should cover it when it's done. Either using straw or a thin layer of topsoil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmarc117 Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 ok...change of plans...since its a very small space, i think i may just lay sod now. anything special i need to do to prepare the ground? how much do rolls cost? and since its in mostly shade, they make shade seed. do they have shade grass in sod rolls too? tia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Love Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 ok...change of plans...since its a very small space, i think i may just lay sod now. anything special i need to do to prepare the ground? how much do rolls cost? and since its in mostly shade, they make shade seed. do they have shade grass in sod rolls too? tia Most sod I'm familiar with is Kentucky bluegrass. I think that holds true for the upper Midwest and Northeast. I know Bermuda grass is very prevalent in the South and Southeast, but I don't know if they sell sod with that variety. Kentucky bluegrass does okay in relatively shady areas, as long as it gets some sunglight. Make sure the area that you're going to sod is prepped by killing off the old grass and tilling up the soil. The key to successful sod is the root system from the sod growing into the present soil. If you don't till up the old surface, the old surface will act as a barrier to the root system. Use a glyphosate (Roundup) killer to kill off your old lawn, till it up, shape the area, and put down a little bit of 12-12-12 type fertelizer (kind of a reward for the root system). Keep the sod saturated for the first few days its in, keep it watered appropriately through the summer, and you should have a fantastic lawn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmarc117 Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 Most sod I'm familiar with is Kentucky bluegrass. I think that holds true for the upper Midwest and Northeast. I know Bermuda grass is very prevalent in the South and Southeast, but I don't know if they sell sod with that variety. Kentucky bluegrass does okay in relatively shady areas, as long as it gets some sunglight. Make sure the area that you're going to sod is prepped by killing off the old grass and tilling up the soil. The key to successful sod is the root system from the sod growing into the present soil. If you don't till up the old surface, the old surface will act as a barrier to the root system. Use a glyphosate (Roundup) killer to kill off your old lawn, till it up, shape the area, and put down a little bit of 12-12-12 type fertelizer (kind of a reward for the root system). Keep the sod saturated for the first few days its in, keep it watered appropriately through the summer, and you should have a fantastic lawn. thanks dlove Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh B Tool Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 (edited) Well, since I'm a greenskeeper, I guess I know a little something about this. First off most of the advice given has been sound yet very broad ranged. Most lawns and landscapes are area specific, not just state by state but county by county even. Buy the Sunset Western Garden Book. It is the Bible of all gardening and has specific charts to areas etc. be it for grass, ornamentals, tress or whatever. Plus it has more across the gamat information then any other. That said whenever anyone axes me what to do with their lawn I tell them to get a professional out there to take a look and to test a soil sample or three from their yard. These samples will tell them or you for that matter what exactly you need to do, including when and how to do so. Once you get this info I could help you specifically to get a greener, sturdier lawn with friggin' flora everywhere else. Edited March 24, 2007 by Hugh B Tool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh B Tool Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 Most sod I'm familiar with is Kentucky bluegrass. I think that holds true for the upper Midwest and Northeast. I know Bermuda grass is very prevalent in the South and Southeast, but I don't know if they sell sod with that variety. Kentucky bluegrass does okay in relatively shady areas, as long as it gets some sunglight. Make sure the area that you're going to sod is prepped by killing off the old grass and tilling up the soil. The key to successful sod is the root system from the sod growing into the present soil. If you don't till up the old surface, the old surface will act as a barrier to the root system. Use a glyphosate (Roundup) killer to kill off your old lawn, till it up, shape the area, and put down a little bit of 12-12-12 type fertelizer (kind of a reward for the root system). Keep the sod saturated for the first few days its in, keep it watered appropriately through the summer, and you should have a fantastic lawn. 2 to 3" layer of sand directly under your sod layer is extremely important and helps promote root adherence along with improving your top drainage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sugar Magnolia Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 2 to 3" layer of sand directly under your sod layer is extremely important and helps promote root adherence along with improving your top drainage. Don't you want a combo of top soil and sand Hugh B Tool? We had landscapers put a nice layer of topsoil and sand after tilling when we laid our sod in CA. Later we wanted to expand the lawn and brought another landscaper in. He didn't lay down any topsoil and the part the later landscaper put down would get diseased and die every season when it would get hot. We'd even have mushrooms grow when the lawn was brown and dead, meaning it was probably getting enough water or too much, but the water was sitting on top and not absorbing down to the root. You could tell exactly where the old and new lawn began and left off once the hot weather hit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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