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Remodeling a basement


PaulOttCarruth
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I'm in the process of remodeling my basement and have it pretty well framed up. Before I move onto the drywall, I want to wire it for HD. At this point, I don't own a HDTV and don't have a receiver with HDMI inputs. Both are on the shopping list but I haven't gotten there, so I really don't have a clue about the hookups.

 

The flatscreen will be mounted to the wall. The components (stereo, blueray, DirectTV) would be in a built-in cabinet about 8 feet away. Questions:

 

Is there anything other than HDMI cables that I need to run from the entertainment cabinet to where the TV will be mounted?

 

How many HDMI cables should I run between the cabinet and the TV?

 

When I'm wiring the speakers/woofer, am I okay wiring for 6.1 surround? What is 7.1?

 

What am I missing?

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I think you will be fine with just HDMI cables to your TV. Most newer HDTV's come with at least 2 HDMI inputs.

I'd recommend buying cables from Monoprice.com

I've bought HDMI cables as well as digital audio cables from them and they all work great at a fraction of the cost you will pay at a store like Best Buy.

 

I would think you would need the following cables for the stereo/blueray/Directv (excluding power cables and speaker wires).

Directv box to TV = HDMI cable

Directv box to Stereo = HDMI cable or Digital Audio cable if no HDMI input on Stereo (either Optical Toslink or Digital Coaxial depending on what ports you have available on your box/stereo)

Blueray to TV = HDMI cable

Blueray to Stereo = HDMI cable or Digital Audio cable if no HDMI input on Stereo (either Optical Toslink or Digital Coaxial depending on what ports you have available on your DVD player/stereo)

 

I'm not that up to speed on 6.1 vs 7.1 surround but there's quite a few discussions on the subject if you do a google search.

Here's some basic info on the two types.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surround_sound

 

 

Edit: Not sure if you have any type of gaming system like a PS3. If so you may want to install an additional HDMI cable for it. Note, some gaming systems like Wii don't support HDMI so you'll want to verify what the game systems output options are.

Edited by myhousekey
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I'm in the process of remodeling my basement and have it pretty well framed up. Before I move onto the drywall, I want to wire it for HD. At this point, I don't own a HDTV and don't have a receiver with HDMI inputs. Both are on the shopping list but I haven't gotten there, so I really don't have a clue about the hookups.

 

The flatscreen will be mounted to the wall. The components (stereo, blueray, DirectTV) would be in a built-in cabinet about 8 feet away. Questions:

 

Is there anything other than HDMI cables that I need to run from the entertainment cabinet to where the TV will be mounted?

 

How many HDMI cables should I run between the cabinet and the TV?

 

When I'm wiring the speakers/woofer, am I okay wiring for 6.1 surround? What is 7.1?

 

What am I missing?

First and foremost you ain't missing much in moving beyond 5.1. 6.1 has one rear center channel. 7.1 has two rear "center channels". Very few things are encoded for anything other than 5.1. Personally I think it's just a ploy to sell more speakers.

 

First thing about your HDMI cable is that max length is about 50 feet. This is one time where I'm going to caution you to make sure that have you high quality cables. Note: high quality, not high dollar. An HDMI signal will start to lose strength after about 10 feet and after 50 feet will have lost enough strength so that you start to get picture distorsion, sparklies or no picture at all.

 

You will need to make sure that you have a device (most likely the receiver or pre/pro) that does HDMI video switching so that you only have to run one cable to the display device. Otherwise, each device such as the cable/sat box, dvr, or Blu-ray will have to have its own cable to connect to the TV. That can start to get expensive.

 

 

Edit: you can see from myhousekey's post above that you can get yourself into trouble quickly if you don't know what you're doing. Run one HDMI cable from the receiver to the TV. Run a second one IFF (that's if and only if) you want redundancy in the event that the first cable dies at some point and you don't want to crack open the wall to run another one. There is no need to do it any other way. You will want to run a short HDMI cable from the DirecTv box to the receiver. This carries both audio and video so that there will be no need for an additional toslink cable as described above. Same for the other devices. Just run a short HDMI cable from the device to the receiver.

 

I just saved you about $250. Buy me a beer the next time I see you.

Edited by Kid Cid
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First and foremost you ain't missing much in moving beyond 5.1. 6.1 has one rear center channel. 7.1 has two rear "center channels". Very few things are encoded for anything other than 5.1. Personally I think it's just a ploy to sell more speakers.

 

First thing about your HDMI cable is that max length is about 50 feet. This is one time where I'm going to caution you to make sure that have you high quality cables. Note: high quality, not high dollar. An HDMI signal will start to lose strength after about 10 feet and after 50 feet will have lost enough strength so that you start to get picture distorsion, sparklies or no picture at all.

 

You will need to make sure that you have a device (most likely the receiver or pre/pro) that does HDMI video switching so that you only have to run one cable to the display device. Otherwise, each device such as the cable/sat box, dvr, or Blu-ray will have to have its own cable to connect to the TV. That can start to get expensive.

 

 

Edit: you can see from myhousekey's post above that you can get yourself into trouble quickly if you don't know what you're doing. Run one HDMI cable from the receiver to the TV. Run a second one IFF (that's if and only if) you want redundancy in the event that the first cable dies at some point and you don't want to crack open the wall to run another one. There is no need to do it any other way. You will want to run a short HDMI cable from the DirecTv box to the receiver. This carries both audio and video so that there will be no need for an additional toslink cable as described above. Same for the other devices. Just run a short HDMI cable from the device to the receiver.

 

I just saved you about $250. Buy me a beer the next time I see you.

 

:wacko:

 

Thanks. Can you recommend a brand of high quality / low cost cable. I probably need 12' or 15' length to be on the safe side.

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I did similar project recently. I'm a proponent of adding at least one more HDMI cable than you need. There may be a gaming system or something else that you may get in the future that you could need a cable. Better to put it in now while your wall is open.

 

The other thing that I think you need to consider is the remote control set-up. If you have the components in the cabinet as you are suggesting, you'll need an infared (IR) repeater and receiver so that you don't have to open up the cabinet everytime that you want to change the channel, etc. There are wireless options that Radio Shack and other stores offer, but I have found them to not work as well as the wired system.

 

EDIT: I bought this IR repeater kit: http://www.hdtvhookup.com/irresyhiirco.html

There are some higher priced, maybe higher quality options out there (I think NILES makes one), but this baby does the job.

Edited by justin
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Edit: you can see from myhousekey's post above that you can get yourself into trouble quickly if you don't know what you're doing.

 

You will want to run a short HDMI cable from the DirecTv box to the receiver. This carries both audio and video so that there will be no need for an additional toslink cable as described above. Same for the other devices. Just run a short HDMI cable from the device to the receiver.

 

Hey, was that a shot at me? :wacko:

 

What do you gain by running an HDMI cable to your stereo from the Directv box? I.e. whats the point of running the video feed to the stereo? I understand the cable carries the digital audio signal too but just always seemed like overkill to me when the digital audio cables I was talking about above are only a couple of bucks for a short run.

 

Edit: I learn something new every day. I guess the HDMI audio signal is better than the digital coax/optical audio signals,especially in regards to newer audio technology.

The difference is an HDMI equipped receiver will allow you to access losslessly compressed or uncompressed PCM tracks. A receiver equipped only with optical/coax inputs will not allow you to access lossless or uncompressed PCM tracks. Optical/ coax will only allow you to listen to the older lossy tracks: DD or DTS.

 

The biggest advantage is that HDMI can carry the next generation audio formats, TOS Link optical audio cables and/or coaxial audio cables cannot. If you are planning on getting the PS3 or an alternate bluray player, you will be missing out on the High Def audio found on bluray films (e.g. Dolby True HD, DTS Master HD, and sometimes Uncompressed 5.1).
Edited by myhousekey
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Never did this but is there a way to run some kinda conduit thru the wall in both directions so that you can feed the wires thru as needed? I'm thinking PVC pipe or some such. Is this off the wall??? :wacko:

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Just HDMI?

 

I have 2 HDMI, 1 VGA, a stereo minijack, 6 RCA, 1 ethernet, 1 toslink optical audio cable, and 2 power cables running through the wall to my TV.

Oh, and the Wii sensor bar cable.

 

Just build a hidden passageway into the wall behind the TV so you can go back there and do what you need.

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:wacko:

 

Thanks. Can you recommend a brand of high quality / low cost cable. I probably need 12' or 15' length to be on the safe side.

 

Monoprice.com has good quality/reasonably priced cables. One thing you will want to check though is if you have any local building codes concerning the type of cable you wish to run.

 

Also check out the other options mentioned, e.g. running conduit pipe or even building a small crawl space. That could ease things in the future. For example, you're better off running cable and leaving it dark now thinking that you may want to use it five years from now.

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Hey, was that a shot at me? :wacko:

 

What do you gain by running an HDMI cable to your stereo from the Directv box? I.e. whats the point of running the video feed to the stereo? I understand the cable carries the digital audio signal too but just always seemed like overkill to me when the digital audio cables I was talking about above are only a couple of bucks for a short run.

 

Edit: I learn something new every day. I guess the HDMI audio signal is better than the digital coax/optical audio signals,especially in regards to newer audio technology.

 

It was only a minor one. :D

 

Seriously though, I've seen you post in regards to HT and I thought you knew about the new uncompressed audio formats available with HDMI. The new HDMI 1.3 spec is pretty solid in its ability to move data around. If you get a chance you should go somewhere and listen to the new formats. Most people won't be able to tell the difference, but some will hear it. Of course, it can sometimes be a drag to watch a movie and spend half your time tying to critically listen to the audio track. Takes a bit away from the whole movie experience. But if you do notice it, then I find that the whole movie viewing experience can be that much more enveloping.

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Never did this but is there a way to run some kinda conduit thru the wall in both directions so that you can feed the wires thru as needed? I'm thinking PVC pipe or some such. Is this off the wall??? :wacko:

Nope...not off the wall. In fact, if he just ran a conduit (can be flexible, plastic or pvc.....just keep the bends soft and to a minimum) with terminal ends looking very much like plastic, round outlet boxes with more open backs.....then he could get on with his remodeling without knowing EXACTLY what he needs right this moment.

 

Just get a general idea so you know how wide to make the conduit to accommodate that many wires.

 

Then just use a fishtape to thread whatever cables/wires you'll need for equipment later. :D

 

This is also a great way to protect the wires down the road from nails in a wall or chaffing against a screw or stud splinter.

 

And if you drill through studs for your conduit, make sure you install a protector plate on each stud in front of the hole so that it is impossible to pierce the conduit with a drywall screw later.

Edited by SteelBunz
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So if I'm interpreting correcty, when I buy the equipment itself, it is more important that I have multiple HDMI inputs on the receiver and really only need one on the TV?

 

Unless you want to always watch tv with the stereo on, you'll need 2 HDMI cables going into the back of the tv. My setup has an HDMI going directly from the satellite receiver into the tv. Then a digital coax running from the satellite receiver into the back of the stereo receiver so I can listen in surround sound if I choose. My blue ray is connected by HDMI into the back of the stereo receiver and then I use the HDMI out on the stereo to my other HDMI input on my tv.

 

90% of the time I watch tv, I don't use the stereo.

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Unless you want to always watch tv with the stereo on, you'll need 2 HDMI cables going into the back of the tv. My setup has an HDMI going directly from the satellite receiver into the tv. Then a digital coax running from the satellite receiver into the back of the stereo receiver so I can listen in surround sound if I choose. My blue ray is connected by HDMI into the back of the stereo receiver and then I use the HDMI out on the stereo to my other HDMI input on my tv.

 

90% of the time I watch tv, I don't use the stereo.

 

 

This is true.

 

I OTOH, always use the home theater setup, even to watch the news. I have the speakers on my TV turned off. This is entirely a matter of personal preference. I just tend to think that you have it, why not use it.

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First thing about your HDMI cable is that max length is about 50 feet. This is one time where I'm going to caution you to make sure that have you high quality cables. Note: high quality, not high dollar. An HDMI signal will start to lose strength after about 10 feet and after 50 feet will have lost enough strength so that you start to get picture distorsion, sparklies or no picture at all.

 

You will need to make sure that you have a device (most likely the receiver or pre/pro) that does HDMI video switching so that you only have to run one cable to the display device. Otherwise, each device such as the cable/sat box, dvr, or Blu-ray will have to have its own cable to connect to the TV. That can start to get expensive.

 

 

Edit: you can see from myhousekey's post above that you can get yourself into trouble quickly if you don't know what you're doing. Run one HDMI cable from the receiver to the TV. Run a second one IFF (that's if and only if) you want redundancy in the event that the first cable dies at some point and you don't want to crack open the wall to run another one. There is no need to do it any other way. You will want to run a short HDMI cable from the DirecTv box to the receiver. This carries both audio and video so that there will be no need for an additional toslink cable as described above. Same for the other devices. Just run a short HDMI cable from the device to the receiver.

 

I just saved you about $250. Buy me a beer the next time I see you.

This is my understanding as well.

 

I would echo what Kid said about getting quality cables and that doesnt necessarily mean expensive cables. I was told by someone who used to work at Best Buy that a/v cables are one of the most highly marked up items in the stores. I am not saying the $100 Monster Cables arent good, just that you dont have to spend that much if you dont want to. Check around on some a/v forumns and you will read some good advice on where to get some good cables at a decent price or check out some of the ones mentioned by other posters here...

 

 

Nope...not off the wall. In fact, if he just ran a conduit (can be flexible, plastic or pvc.....just keep the bends soft and to a minimum) with terminal ends looking very much like plastic, round outlet boxes with more open backs.....then he could get on with his remodeling without knowing EXACTLY what he needs right this moment.

 

Just get a general idea so you know how wide to make the conduit to accommodate that many wires.

 

Then just use a fishtape to thread whatever cables/wires you'll need for equipment later. :wacko:

 

This is also a great way to protect the wires down the road from nails in a wall or chaffing against a screw or stud splinter.

 

And if you drill through studs for your conduit, make sure you install a protector plate on each stud in front of the hole so that it is impossible to pierce the conduit with a drywall screw later.

Great info here ^

 

My wife and I had a home built over the summer of '07. In the family room, I wanted to put a plasma on the wall above the fireplace. What we did was run a "tech tube" that went from the wall above the fireplace through the framing over to a side wall where the other end opens(the tube is just flexible plastic kinda like the hose on a Shop Vac). This was obviously done prior to drywall. We ran a tape through the tech tube and used that to pull any cables from the side wall up through until they came out of the wall above the fp. We also put an electric outlet on the same wall. Then, I mounted my plasma on the wall and plugged the cables/power cord in. We have a cabinet on the side wall that holds all the components. So, there are no wires showing anywhere and the sytem works great.

 

The tube/conduit will allow you to swap out cables as necessary as long as you never pull everything out of it. Works pretty slick.

 

One thing I will suggest(and others may have already, too) is experiment with angles for your remote(s). You'll want to make sure you place the components in a place that your remote will work without you having to move yourself.

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One thing I will suggest(and others may have already, too) is experiment with angles for your remote(s). You'll want to make sure you place the components in a place that your remote will work without you having to move yourself.

 

This is how an IR repeater can help......

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This is how an IR repeater can help......

Agreed. Was just suggesting that he plan out where he wants everything and then check to see if his remote would work well at that angle. Could be he wouldnt need the repeater if he puts the components in one spot but he would in another. Basically, just advising him its worth it to spend some time planning out the configuration before getting started. Kinda the "measure twice - cut once" deal...

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