Clubfoothead Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 It's a single story brick house with wood eaves. Probably time to have someone sand, prime and paint them. It's a 1900 square foot house. I could do it but understand that I will never have the time to do it properly. Before I call for estimates, anyone have a rough idea what that would cost? What's the best exterior paint and primer? I'll be going with white paint probably. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perchoutofwater Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Not knowing the lineal footage, and the square footage of any soffits you might have over patios or entries it's hard to guess, but I'm going to say you are looking somewhere $1,500 to $1,800 if you go with a reputable painter with the proper insurance. You can probably get it done cheaper if you find a guy on a paint crew that wants to do some moonlighting. I like Valspar as far as paint is concerned. With regard to primer, look on the paint can as many paints come with warranties, but only if you use a specific primer. Depending on how long you plan on living in the house, you might look in to putting vinyl siding up instead of repainting. If you plan on being there another ten years you'll come out slightly ahead on the siding, and the siding will give you a better resale value. Also last year there was a tax credit for putting up siding, which will probably be renewed this year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clubfoothead Posted January 13, 2010 Author Share Posted January 13, 2010 With regard to primer, look on the paint can as many paints come with warranties, but only if you use a specific primer. Depending on how long you plan on living in the house, you might look in to putting vinyl siding up instead of repainting. If you plan on being there another ten years you'll come out slightly ahead on the siding, and the siding will give you a better resale value. Also last year there was a tax credit for putting up siding, which will probably be renewed this year. Very helpful info there, thanks. I'll make sure the primer and paint match-up. Using the improper terminology, all we have is about a 1 foot wide board at the top of the bricks all the way around the house, then the roof beams stick out under the roofing so I'm not sure siding will work, but that's the stuff that needs sanded, pinted and primed. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBunz Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 What Perch said, Club. Although I'm pretty sure he meant replace the wood with vinyl.....not to vinyl side the brick.....lol. I was thinking $1700-1800 as well. It's the scraping and the sanding that is the bulk of the work/expense. How old is the house? Do you have sufficient (or any) soffit vents? If you are finding that the paint is peeling or bubbling off....you probably don't have enough ventilation in the attic. This will actually cause painted wood on a house to fail faster than wind, sun and rain. If it's just time to do it......then it's just time to do it....lol. Your one foot board flat against the house is your fascia board. Boards that line the underside of your roof overhang (above your head) are soffits. The beams are roof joists. The latex paints these days are pretty good. But for outdoor use, I'd still use an oil-based primer and paint on the wood. Nothing protects better....but the prep work before painting is crucial. You are lucky you have a one story.....a two story would have cost you much more! Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clubfoothead Posted January 13, 2010 Author Share Posted January 13, 2010 Sounds good, thanks Bunz. The house was built in 1947, don't know when this stuff was painted and primed last, but it is starting to peel in areas. I had a radiant barried and new insulation put in last year with my tax refund. I had enough to cover ventillation upgrades but the people that did the radiant barrier and insulation (and sold ventillation stuff like solar fans, etc) said my ventillation was fine but that they'd be more than willing to take my money and upgrade. I think it's just time. If it weren't for all the sanding, I'd do it myelf. And the holly bushes, those areas would require scaffolding if I were doing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEC=UGA Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 If you go w. oil based, you will always have to use oil based in future, just remember that. (or do a lot of prep work to where you may as well replace the fascia and soffit boards.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBunz Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Sounds good, Club. It's just time. And we all make choices....sure, there are lots of things we could do ourselves. But sometimes the "cost" is less to just hire someone to do it for us. In this case...time. I could have reroofed my house 2 years ago.....lol. But NOT in 3 days like the guys I hired. Well worth saving my back and not renting scaffolding.....lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBunz Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 If you go w. oil based, you will always have to use oil based in future, just remember that. (or do a lot of prep work to where you may as well replace the fascia and soffit boards.) Not really true these days SEC. Most newer primers will allow you to change from oil to latex. Now if you go latex.....it's much harder to go back to oil. You really have to get back to bare wood for that. But the oil does soak into the wood and protect it much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEC=UGA Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Not really true these days SEC. Most newer primers will allow you to change from oil to latex. Now if you go latex.....it's much harder to go back to oil. You really have to get back to bare wood for that. But the oil does soak into the wood and protect it much better. Agreed on the protection factor. And good to know you can now go latex over oil (there has got to be a lewd joke in there somewhere.. ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Footballjoe Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Wrap that wood and don't worry with it no more. You can fly my son and his boss (my soon to be in-law) out from VA and they will do it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geeteebee Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Call Southern Painting. They are pretty much the gold standard around the metroplex. I wouldn't use them, unless you want the best, but they'll give you an estimate, tell you what boards need to be replaced, etc. Their estimate will be 10-15% higher than any other (or more if it is just a guy with a brush) but they are very reputable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 Sounds good, Club. It's just time. And we all make choices....sure, there are lots of things we could do ourselves. But sometimes the "cost" is less to just hire someone to do it for us. In this case...time. I could have reroofed my house 2 years ago.....lol. But NOT in 3 days like the guys I hired. Well worth saving my back and not renting scaffolding.....lol. You can take a road trip and come to my house. I need to replace some sidewalks and could use a new roof. LoL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pig devilz Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 Club, I've been involved with home improvement, professionally, for 25+ years.....some of the replies here are flat out wrong and some are right on...if you want more info pm me my company gives a 5 year warranty on all of our ext painting. 100% acrylic based paint (latex) is the best way to go. Clean Air Act has outlawed oil based paints, if Texas adopted the laws. built in 1947, you most definitely have lead paint on there. kids? if not it will still contaminate your soil/gardens if not prepared right. there is a widely used formula for figuring out the cost of your project. pm me, i'll ask you a few questions and do an estimate for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBunz Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 GREAT point about a 1947 home and lead-based paint! But I was also assuming he was hiring someone else to do it who would take the necessary precautions. Even in old interiors, the law here is that if it is NOT chipping or pealing, it can just be repainted. If it IS chipping or pealing, it needs to be removed up to the 4 foot level (so children don't peal and eat the chips). But you're totally right, PD. Raining lead paint chips......not good. But a reputable painting company would make sure to contain it...right? Texas outlawed oil-based paint? I didn't know that. Good to know! We here in Ohio still use oil-based paint quite regularly on home exteriors. We also have some probably more severe temperature fluctuations than Tx. Texas has the long, scorching heat.....so do we at times in the summer. But I doubt they have many blizzards or below zero readings in the winter. I'm not denigrating latexes.....some are terrific. But I'll stand by my oil on wood for exteriors. Especially in this climate. But around here....you'd have to have your house repainted about every 5 years if it were clapboard and done in acrylic latex. Which is probably why aluminum and vinyl siding companies have done so well in Ohio. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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