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Radiant Barriers


Clubfoothead
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My house was built in 1957. I am getting a tax refund. Improving our energy efficiency would be awesome both in terms of being more efficient and the long term savings. I've got insulation only and teh original ventilation right now up there.

 

Anyone have any experience with this? Does it work even close to what the companies claim? What should I be looking for in an installer and a price on a 1948 square feet, single story? I'm thinking about having some estimates done when I get some time.

 

TIA

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My house was built in 1957. I am getting a tax refund. Improving our energy efficiency would be awesome both in terms of being more efficient and the long term savings. I've got insulation only and teh original ventilation right now up there.

 

Anyone have any experience with this? Does it work even close to what the companies claim? What should I be looking for in an installer and a price on a 1948 square feet, single story? I'm thinking about having some estimates done when I get some time.

 

TIA

 

I do not know about RB's but probably adding more insulation to what you have would be quite helpful and much cheaper. I am assuming you have not already added to the orginal insulation You could blow in some on top of what you already have.

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Whatever I do is going to be cash with the tax refund. It's brick so I don't know that siding is an option, is it? The best idea would be new windows for the place but that ain't in the works right now. Anything under $2,500.00 is money I can use to take the wife out dancing or something in a few weeks. She could use a break but we want to try and use it for something to help cool the place in the summer without installing another/larger unit that'll just jack up the electric bill more.

 

Any thoughts are appreciated and given Perch's proximity and experience, maybe this thread will catch his eye.

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I've heard, that on a square foot basis for installation, radiant barriers compare favorably to more insulation. However, I don't really know much more than that. Is there a particular reason you are focused on radiant barriers over other options?

 

An attic ventilation fan that only moves air out of the attic space can make a big difference up there. As mentioned, a few more inches of blown-in can be a big help. If you have original insulation, it is likely very under-insulated by today's standards. Also, do you have insulation in the walls? You can have that blown in there as well or rent the machine and DIY.

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Club, I think you kind spend your money on other things that will help just as much if not more. The three things I'd look at if I were you are as follows:

 

1. Does your attic have proper ventilation? A house your size should have at least two if not three turbine vents positioned high on the roof. You also need to make sure your soffit vents are not covered. A lot of times insulation crews that don't pay attention cover these. This would be the first thing that I would do, because if you don't have proper ventilation I don't care how much insulation you put up there, it will be an oven and eventually get through the insulation. Also contrary to what someone else said, don't get an electric fan for an attic vent. You will be throwing money away. They have to be replaced about every 5 years down here.

 

2. When was the last time you were in the attic? Check your duct work if you haven't physically inspected it before or have had any work done in the attic since you have. Make sure all your supplies are insulated. Make sure there aren't any leaks. Also, change your filters at the return grilles on a on a bi-monthly basis, and the filter at the unit annually. Filters are cheap, clean ones will make your system run more efficiently as well as give you better air quality.

 

3. Throw more insulation up there. Radiant barriers do work, but primarily in the summer, and not necessarily any better than insulation that works year round.

 

Another idea, if you know you have a lot of heat gain from the windows, tint them. Get a reflective tent put on the windows, particularly those that face west. Call a local window man, he can give you some options. The first house my wife and I lived in, one of the rooms had a large window that faced west. Regardless of what we put the thermostat on, it would be 85 in that room just from the radiant heat. We tinted the window and the problem was solved.

 

Also, check any caulking you might have around windows and doors Even the best caulk only lasts about 10-12 if it is on the exterior. On the interior it will hold up longer, but given the age of the house, you probably have some caulking you could do that would be cheap and easy.

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What Perch said about checking the vents is very important. I had a roof replaced last year. Not only were the shingles replaced but I had to replace all the underlayment as well. The reason, the vent grilles under the soffit were there. Oh, I had grilles but the yo yo brain that installed them back in the 60's did not cut the holes out. :wacko: That cost me an extra $2000 to have all the underlayment rpeplaced. When I bought the house 15 yrs ago the roof was only a year old. What should had been a 25 - 30 yr roof only lasted 16. :D

 

On the plus side my drain pipes are copper. When the price of copper gets back up to $3 lb. I will be installing PVC drain lines. :D

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Have someone looks at the vents and see if you need more. That is a must. You also probably need more insulation...a lot more. I wouldn't do the radiant barrier. I don't think it's worth the money. My parents had this done and can't tell the difference.

 

My home is about your size. It's new, so maybe the wall insulation is a little better. But we had a ton of insulation blown when we built it. My gas/electric bill combined has never been over $200. It is also properly vented.

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