Auto Repair Question

[Footballjoe]

I need to replace the rear ball joint to the drive shaft. I unbolted 2 clamps which allowed me to drop the shaft. Now, how the heck do you get the ball joint off the shaft? Its as though the alum shaft was made around the ball joint. I know thats not the case though. Do I just have to beat the heck out of it? How would the new one go in? I could not find anything on the net. Going to search my garage and see if I have a repair book on this truck but don't ever remember buying one. Calling all auto repair techs!

[Chief Dick]

Run to the liqour store. Grab a 12-er of Busch Light.

 

Go home, sit in the driveway, crack open a beer, look at the mess you just created, and just laugh.

[Skippy]

You need one of these or one of these if I am reading your post correctly. I have never used the first one but used to use the second one a lot in my younger days.

Edited August 15, 2010 by Skippy

[buddahj]

I need to replace the rear ball joint to the drive shaft. I unbolted 2 clamps which allowed me to drop the shaft. Now, how the heck do you get the ball joint off the shaft? Its as though the alum shaft was made around the ball joint. I know thats not the case though. Do I just have to beat the heck out of it? How would the new one go in? I could not find anything on the net. Going to search my garage and see if I have a repair book on this truck but don't ever remember buying one. Calling all auto repair techs!

There's no rear hall joint on this vehicle. I'll expound later.

[Skippy]

There's no rear hall joint on this vehicle. I'll expound later.

Yes I guess I should have read that a little bit.

 

Ball joint on the drive shaft??? He talking about a universal joint, I guess?

[Chief Dick]

Yes I guess I should have read that a little bit.

 

Ball joint on the drive shaft??? He talking about a universal joint, I guess?

 

Unless he's talking about the spritzer valve. It's all ball bearings these days fellas.

[buddahj]

I need to replace the rear ball joint to the drive shaft. I unbolted 2 clamps which allowed me to drop the shaft. Now, how the heck do you get the ball joint off the shaft? Its as though the alum shaft was made around the ball joint. I know thats not the case though. Do I just have to beat the heck out of it? How would the new one go in? I could not find anything on the net. Going to search my garage and see if I have a repair book on this truck but don't ever remember buying one. Calling all auto repair techs!

You are going to have to knock it out with a BHF. Make sure you buy two u-joints. Based on my experience...you'll probably break the 1st one trying to install it.

[Footballjoe]

Yeah, its the U joint. I think I may just carry the shaft to a garage and have them replace it. I can reinstall the shaft onto the truck.

[tbimm]

A hammer and a drift is all you need to do it yourself. Secure the shaft in a vise and start pounding the joint out. There are snap rings you have to remove first but this is something you can do at home.

[westvirginia]

A hammer and a drift is all you need to do it yourself. Secure the shaft in a vise and start pounding the joint out. There are snap rings you have to remove first but this is something you can do at home.

 

Ding ding - and a drift is a type of punch, for those not in the know.

 

I actually don't put it in a vise, I usually just do one side at a time right under the truck. That's the difference between a shade-tree like me and a perfesshunall!

[Footballjoe]

I called a shop that I have taken my cars to before and was told they would remove the old and install the new for $40. I have the part already. I know another shop that will probably do it cheaper. However, I still may try it myself so I have a question. If you have to beat the living hell out of the old U joint to remove it, what do you have to do to the new one to get it in without destroying it or the axle?

[SEC=UGA]

I called a shop that I have taken my cars to before and was told they would remove the old and install the new for $40. I have the part already. I know another shop that will probably do it cheaper. However, I still may try it myself so I have a question. If you have to beat the living hell out of the old U joint to remove it, what do you have to do to the new one to get it in without destroying it or the axle?

 

I'd say pay the $40 and find out...

[darin3]

Unless he's talking about the spritzer valve. It's all ball bearings these days fellas.

See sig.

[Skippy]

Ding ding - and a drift is a type of punch, for those not in the know.

 

I actually don't put it in a vise, I usually just do one side at a time right under the truck. That's the difference between a shade-tree like me and a perfesshunall!

Same with me. No pro by any stretch but I will tear anything apart and try like hell to fix it.

 

I have not done a U-Joint in years, FBJ, but once you get the thing pounded out, (I never had that much trouble with one), the new one goes in pretty easily.

[T_bone65]

I called a shop that I have taken my cars to before and was told they would remove the old and install the new for $40. I have the part already. I know another shop that will probably do it cheaper. However, I still may try it myself so I have a question. If you have to beat the living hell out of the old U joint to remove it, what do you have to do to the new one to get it in without destroying it or the axle?

 

 

I'd say pay the $40 and find out...

 

 

+ pay the $40

[Skippy]

+ pay the $40

No way! He already did the hard part and dropped the shaft. Be a man. Piss in the woods and finish it off. Then sit back and drink a 12 pack while you look at the truck ready to be pushed to the garage.

[T_bone65]

No way! He already did the hard part and dropped the shaft. Be a man. Piss in the woods and finish it off. Then sit back and drink a 12 pack while you look at the truck ready to be pushed to the garage.

 

 

[westvirginia]

Same with me. No pro by any stretch but I will tear anything apart and try like hell to fix it.

 

I have not done a U-Joint in years, FBJ, but once you get the thing pounded out, (I never had that much trouble with one), the new one goes in pretty easily.

 

I haven't either - not since High School. Come to think of it, my '97 F-150 has 185K on it right now and it's never had the first u-joint, ball-joint, tie-rod end, idler arm or anything put on it. It needs shocks but the suspension is tip-top even after 14 years and that many miles. The Michelin LTX's I have on it have 63K on them and they still have plenty of tread and don't show uneven wear. CNC machining has been a boon for car parts.

[Footballjoe]

Maybe I should offer a case of Bud to the first huddler who comes to my house and gets the job done.

[bpwallace49]

Unless he's talking about the spritzer valve. It's all ball bearings these days fellas.

 

Gotta love a Fletch reference

[Footballjoe]

OK I saved myself $40 and did it myself. It took about 5 minutes to get the old one out and about 45 minutes to get the new one in. I had a problem with the end caps. Of course they had to be removed and when I was putting everything togther some of the pins came out. Wasn't hard to put them in but it was just a little tedious.

 

NOW THE PROBLEM I cannot get the rear seal in. I cannot apply even pressure on 2 sides at the same time which appears to be what needs to be done. I tried tapping it all around and then on one side while holding one side. I even tried clapping one side while I tapped the other. I screwed the seal up. Any suggestions?

 

$40 - $8 (new seal) = $32

[T_bone65]

OK I saved myself $40 and did it myself. It took about 5 minutes to get the old one out and about 45 minutes to get the new one in. I had a problem with the end caps. Of course they had to be removed and when I was putting everything togther some of the pins came out. Wasn't hard to put them in but it was just a little tedious.

 

NOW THE PROBLEM I cannot get the rear seal in. I cannot apply even pressure on 2 sides at the same time which appears to be what needs to be done. I tried tapping it all around and then on one side while holding one side. I even tried clapping one side while I tapped the other. I screwed the seal up. Any suggestions?

 

$40 - $8 (new seal) = $32

 

 

Your time doesn't cost anything? I should have you do all my handy work than since I wouldn't be charged labor

[tbimm]

OK I saved myself $40 and did it myself. It took about 5 minutes to get the old one out and about 45 minutes to get the new one in. I had a problem with the end caps. Of course they had to be removed and when I was putting everything togther some of the pins came out. Wasn't hard to put them in but it was just a little tedious.

 

NOW THE PROBLEM I cannot get the rear seal in. I cannot apply even pressure on 2 sides at the same time which appears to be what needs to be done. I tried tapping it all around and then on one side while holding one side. I even tried clapping one side while I tapped the other. I screwed the seal up. Any suggestions?

 

$40 - $8 (new seal) = $32

A round metal object with the same diameter as the metal part of the seal. A piece of a 2X4 just a little larger than your metal object and a hammer. You can figure out the rest. I usually use a socket out of my 3/4 drive set but any piece of pipe will work. All your trying to do is get an even shot at the whole seal at once. With a socket the right size you don't need the piece of wood as you can hit the backside of the socket with the hammer.

[Footballjoe]

A round metal object with the same diameter as the metal part of the seal. A piece of a 2X4 just a little larger than your metal object and a hammer. You can figure out the rest. I usually use a socket out of my 3/4 drive set but any piece of pipe will work. All your trying to do is get an even shot at the whole seal at once. With a socket the right size you don't need the piece of wood as you can hit the backside of the socket with the hammer.

 

 

I don't see how that can work. I get what you are trying to say but shaft is in the way. Perhaps I am doing this all wrong. I slide the seal on the shaft and then inserted it into the transmission and then bolted the shaft at the universal. Then I attempted to knock the seal in place. Should I have put the seal on before I slide the shaft in?

[Zooty]

Should I have put the seal on before I slide the shaft in?

 

 

always wear a hat