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Help me decide on a TV


Chief Dick
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When wiring this up, if I use an HDMI cable from my receiver to the tv, then I don't ever need the old red, white, and yellow A/V cables right (they are dedundant)?

as keggerz said, that is correct.

the 3 color coded plugs and white/red (audio) are Color Stream and HDMI is, well, HDMI.

there is a difference in qulity but not readily noticable to most.

 

and yes keggerz, i did get the HDMI Monster cable.....i noticed a difference.

cables make a huge difference, don't cheap out on them......forget about that $9.99 crap from walmart.

 

i have the Panny Plasma 37" in a narrow/long room, anything bigger would be to big.

have to consider typical sitting distance (read; favorite chair) from the tv

 

just bought a nice little Toshiba 19' HDTV/DVR for the bedroom, $265.

i NEVER pay full price or sale price. :wacko:

Edited by pig devilz
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as keggerz said, that is correct.

the 3 color coded plugs and white/red (audio) are Color Stream and HDMI is, well, HDMI.

there is a difference in qulity but not readily noticable to most.

 

and yes keggerz, i did get the HDMI Monster cable.....i noticed a difference.

cables make a huge difference, don't cheap out on them......forget about that $9.99 crap from walmart.

 

i have the Panny Plasma 37" in a narrow/long room, anything bigger would be to big.

have to consider typical sitting distance (read; favorite chair) from the tv

 

just bought a nice little Toshiba 19' HDTV/DVR for the bedroom, $265.

i NEVER pay full price or sale price. :wacko:

:D monster is overpriced

 

:D Calling KidCid

 

you are correct that with component cables you want to have a nice set with good connectors (dont need monster though) but with HDMI it is all 1s and 0s the HDMI cable you get from Monoprice from $8ish to $20 (depending on length) will do just as well as a $100 monster cable

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and yes keggerz, i did get the HDMI Monster cable.....i noticed a difference.

cables make a huge difference, don't cheap out on them......forget about that $9.99 crap from walmart.

http://boardsus.playstation.com/playstatio...hread.id=828972

 

Since this question gets asked like 15 times a day, and I usually end up responding to them, I'll make a general post... Sure would be nice to be stickied, but since that won't happen, at least highlight it and keep the URL so you yourself will have an easy time "replying" to the onslaught of questions...

 

I originally wrote this as a reply to a post, but thought it made more sense standing on it's own... So here goes...

 

"Question: Is there any difference between a cheap (i.e. $10 HDMI cable) and an expensive (i.e. $150 HDMI cable)???"

I have an EE degree. I work as a broadcast engineer. I live and breath digital and analog signals every day. So yes, you could say I'm qualified to give the answer to this question...

 

That answer is, "No, an expensive HDMI cable will make NO difference in the quality of your picture OR sound"

 

I'll give you the more complex reason first, then an analogy... Hopefully one will make sense... :smileywink: If you don't want all the real technical stuff, just skip down to B for a real simple explaination...

 

A) Wires send electrical signals... Plain and simple. Anything sent over a wire is ultimately just a voltage/current applied to that cable. Let's say we're talking about an analog video signal that's 1 volt peak to peak... In other words, measuring from the LOWEST voltage to the HIGHEST voltage will give a result of 1 volt... With an analog signal you have "slices" of time that are "lines" of signal... It's too complex to go into here, but basically you have a "front porch" which is known as the "setup"... This is what helps your tv "lock onto" and sets the "black level" for the signal. After that you've got each line of the image (455 half cycles per line). Again I won't go into how chromanance (color information) and luminance (picture or brightness information) is combined, seperated, etc.. It's too complex for this discussion, but irregardless, just know that following that porch you've got all the lines of the picture (and some that don't show up on the picture... these carry closed captioning, test signals, etc...). All of these "lines" of information when you look at them on a scope look like this...

 

That waveform is all of that information in analog form... In other words, if you look at one VERY SMALL timeslice of that waveform, the EXACT position of the form (i.e. what voltage is present) represents what information is at that position...

 

Because of this, it's VERY EASY for other radiated signals to get "mixed in" with that information. When this happens, the more "noise" you get mixed into the signal, the more degraded the picture will be... You'll start to get snow, lines, weird colors, etc... Because "information" is getting into the waveform that doesn't belong there...

 

With digital however, (i.e. the signal sent over an HDMI cable), the information is encoded differently... At it's lowest level, it's nothing but a string of bits... In other words, each signal is either ON or OFF... It doesn't care if a particular timeslice is 4.323 volts or 4.927 volts... It's just ON... See on the right side here, the "square wave" pattern?

 

That's what a digital signal looks like... For each "slice" of the signal, the "bit" is either on (if the signal is high) or off (if it's low)...

 

Because of that, even if you mix some noise, or even a LOT of noise into the signal, the bit will STILL be on or off... It doesn't matter...

 

 

Now, for a slightly easier to understand analogy...

 

:wacko: Think of it this way... Let's say you have a ladder with 200 steps on it... An "analog" signal represent information by WHICH step the person is on at a certain time. As you move further and further away (get "noise or interference in the signal), it's very easy to start making mistakes... For example, if the person is on the 101st step, you might say he's on 102nd, or as you get further away, you might start making more and more mistakes... At some point you won't know if the person is on the 13th step or the 50th step....

 

NOW... In a digital signal, we don't care if he's on the 13th or 14th or 15th step... All we care about is rather he's at the TOP or the BOTTOM... So now, as we back you up further and further (introduce more noise), you might have no idea what STEP he's on, but you'll STILL be able to tell if he's a "1" or a "0"...

 

THIS is why digital signals aren't affected by cheaper cables, etc... Now eventually if you keep moving further and further back, there may come a point where you can no longer tell if he's up or down... But the good news is, digital signals don't "guess"... If they SEE the signal, they work... If they DON'T, they DON'T.. LOL

 

So if anyone ever tells you they can "see the difference" between HDMI cables, etc... You can knowingly laugh to yourself and think about how much money the poor sole wasted on something that was pointless.

 

 

Now, I've seen others say that they make a difference in audio... ALL audio carried over HDMI is STILL in digital format... So again, since it's a digital signal, it will not make ANY difference at all....

 

I've also seen various posts in regards to things like "Make sure you get a v1.3 cable"... The various HDMI versions determine the capabilities of the DEVICES on either end of that cable (most of the HDMI versions (other then 1.0 to 1.1) have to do with AUDIO and how many channels / type of audio are carried...) Because of this, the cable itself is NO DIFFERENT... It's just marketing that some companies charge more for a "v1.3" cable then a "v1.1" cable, etc... The cables themselves will work now and WELL into the future for any other HDMI versions that come along the way....

 

So there you have it... Hopefully it's clear enough to understand and hopefully it will help prevent a few posts...

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hmmm....good info i guess.

maybe the better picture i'm seeing comes from switching from Color Stream

to HDMI and getting a new cable box from my provider....the old one didn't

even have a HDMI input on it....it's also a DVR, but that probly doesn't make a difference.

 

paid 60 for my 4 ft cable.....sounds like i paid 50 to much

:wacko:

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Found a 46" Sammy with 5 ms response time in 1080p for $1k - very happy. Hopefully I'll has as happy after I set it up at home. :wacko:

Congrats!

 

I've been sitting on the sidelines watching this thread and contemplating on if I should jump in to the HD arena as well.

 

 

Does it happen to be the LCD A500 Model? I saw that on sale for $1098.00 over the weekend. I almost bought it, but instead went with the sister TV (A540 Model) at Costco for a $100 more. All the reviews say it is a very good TV (and I'm sure it is). However, after researching and finding out most of the Black Friday TV sales are for TV's that have a few downgrades such as contrast ratio and fewer inputs, I decided to spend the extra "hundy".

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http://boardsus.playstation.com/playstatio...hread.id=828972

 

Since this question gets asked like 15 times a day, and I usually end up responding to them, I'll make a general post... Sure would be nice to be stickied, but since that won't happen, at least highlight it and keep the URL so you yourself will have an easy time "replying" to the onslaught of questions...

 

Thanks for this keggerz... one of the Best Buy salesmen had me second-guessing myself about going with the cheaper HDMI cables that I bought because he said that "they might not be rated for 1080p" which he said would make a difference if watching blue-ray movies. Glad I didn't bite.

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hmmm....good info i guess.

maybe the better picture i'm seeing comes from switching from Color Stream

to HDMI and getting a new cable box from my provider....the old one didn't

even have a HDMI input on it....it's also a DVR, but that probly doesn't make a difference.

 

paid 60 for my 4 ft cable.....sounds like i paid 50 to much

:wacko:

$4.74 for 6'

 

sorry man

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Thanks for this keggerz... one of the Best Buy salesmen had me second-guessing myself about going with the cheaper HDMI cables that I bought because he said that "they might not be rated for 1080p" which he said would make a difference if watching blue-ray movies. Glad I didn't bite.

print it out and go back and shove it in his face and tell him to stop lying to people

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print it out and go back and shove it in his face and tell him to stop lying to people

 

I might just do that. :wacko:

 

I know that A/V cables are to Best Buy as tap beer is to a bar (huge mark and everybody is buying)... but to be dishonest about it simply isn't necessary. I'm sure they will sell enough of them to people who don't know or care... they don't need to lie to me and get me all worried over nothing. Just makes me angry now after what could have been a decent buying experience.

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http://www.monoprice.com/home/index.asp

For all your cable needs at GREAT prices

If you have a cable provider, and I know it isn't a lot of $$, it doesn't hurt to ask them also. I have Verizon FiOS and a tech was in looking at a problem with our TV service (replaced a splitter and a coax). I asked if he had any HDMI and TOSLINIK cables, he gave me a 10' HDMI and a 12' TOSLINK cable no charge. FWIW

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Congrats!

 

I've been sitting on the sidelines watching this thread and contemplating on if I should jump in to the HD arena as well.

 

 

Does it happen to be the LCD A500 Model? I saw that on sale for $1098.00 over the weekend. I almost bought it, but instead went with the sister TV (A540 Model) at Costco for a $100 more. All the reviews say it is a very good TV (and I'm sure it is). However, after researching and finding out most of the Black Friday TV sales are for TV's that have a few downgrades such as contrast ratio and fewer inputs, I decided to spend the extra "hundy".

 

The set I bought is a 5 series, but not a 500 - 505, 508 - something like that? :wacko:

 

It was 1080p, looked great and had the faster response time I was looking for. :D Now I just have to finish the basement so I have somewhere to put that bad boy. :D Got all wired up for surround last night - hopefully by Christmas....

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keggerz....this from the monoprice site you linked to. it's under 'Knowledge Base'.

put this together with the technical stuff you posted and, bingo!

 

~~~

Question: Why are your cables so cheap? Are they as good as the name brand cables the retail stores are trying to get me to buy?

Answer: Yes, the cables we sell are just as high in quality, construction, materials and reliability as those typically found in retail stores. We stand behind then with a life time warrenty.

 

There are many reasons why we can bring you such great value. The main reasons would be as follows. Elimination of the middle man. We are a national distributor working directly the factories and because of this we are basically bringing the product to you at wholesale prices. Retail stores and national brand products have much more overhead including, nationwide networks of stores, distribution warehouses, large commissioned sales staffs, advertising budgets, packaging, etc. But the main reason would be mark up. Most retail work on a "Loss Leader" model of sales. They advertise high ticket items at great prices leaving them with little to no margin. They make up that margin with all the add on items they can sell you such as extended warrenties, batteries, cases and cables. They sell these items with a very high mark up.

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keggerz....this from the monoprice site you linked to. it's under 'Knowledge Base'.

put this together with the technical stuff you posted and, bingo!

 

~~~

Question: Why are your cables so cheap? Are they as good as the name brand cables the retail stores are trying to get me to buy?

Answer: Yes, the cables we sell are just as high in quality, construction, materials and reliability as those typically found in retail stores. We stand behind then with a life time warrenty.

 

There are many reasons why we can bring you such great value. The main reasons would be as follows. Elimination of the middle man. We are a national distributor working directly the factories and because of this we are basically bringing the product to you at wholesale prices. Retail stores and national brand products have much more overhead including, nationwide networks of stores, distribution warehouses, large commissioned sales staffs, advertising budgets, packaging, etc. But the main reason would be mark up. Most retail work on a "Loss Leader" model of sales. They advertise high ticket items at great prices leaving them with little to no margin. They make up that margin with all the add on items they can sell you such as extended warrenties, batteries, cases and cables. They sell these items with a very high mark up.

good stuff!

 

You might want to run it through a spell checker first though, if you're gonna use that as evidence with the store that ripped you off . :wacko:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok.

 

I have a couple of options now.

 

I can get a 40" Samsung 1080p from Best Buy for $899. Model # LN40A530 I've seen this one for as low as $799.

 

They also have a 50" Samsung 1080p DLP for $899. Model # HL50A650

 

Best Buy has a 36 month no interest deal right now, which is real tempting. We can pay cash, but winter is always my slow time, so we would probably go this route and pay it off during AC season.

 

Viewing angle is not a big deal in my house, as the seating is just about straight on from every point. The worst viewing point may be about 36" one way or the other from the center of the TV, about 4' out. The main couch is straight on.

 

What say you? Or is it better to hold out at this point and wait for the 120hz LCD's to come down? (which is what I really want)

Edited by Chief Dick
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Ok.

 

I have a couple of options now.

 

I can get a 40" Samsung 1080p from Best Buy for $899. Model # LN40A530 I've seen this one for as low as $799.

 

They also have a 50" Samsung 1080p DLP for $899. Model # HL50A650

 

Best Buy has a 36 month no interest deal right now, which is real tempting. We can pay cash, but winter is always my slow time, so we would probably go this route and pay it off during AC season.

 

Viewing angle is not a big deal in my house, as the seating is just about straight on from every point. The worst viewing point may be about 36" one way or the other from the center of the TV, about 4' out. The main couch is straight on.

 

What say you? Or is it better to hold out at this point and wait for the 120hz LCD's to come down? (which is what I really want)

And 240Hz. is here also! We're talkin' minmals here. Buy the set that fits the space, has a good pic, etc.. You can't beat tech, you can only get what you want, when you want and live w/ it.

Buy what ever suits your fancy, my friend.

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:wacko: stay away from Samsung right now....

 

I know that I've urged Samsung purchases in the past, but they are having constant sound issues with their newer models...they have built up their reputation and doo-doo'd on it just as fast...

 

I'd stick with Sony, Panasonic or Sharp....

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Ok.

 

I have a couple of options now.

 

I can get a 40" Samsung 1080p from Best Buy for $899. Model # LN40A530 I've seen this one for as low as $799.

 

They also have a 50" Samsung 1080p DLP for $899. Model # HL50A650

 

Best Buy has a 36 month no interest deal right now, which is real tempting. We can pay cash, but winter is always my slow time, so we would probably go this route and pay it off during AC season.

 

Viewing angle is not a big deal in my house, as the seating is just about straight on from every point. The worst viewing point may be about 36" one way or the other from the center of the TV, about 4' out. The main couch is straight on.

 

What say you? Or is it better to hold out at this point and wait for the 120hz LCD's to come down? (which is what I really want)

 

 

have not read the entire thread, so not sure if you are all set on LCD but just go get a Panny Plasma already!!

 

cant beat them for the money IMO - great deals on last years models

 

and don't even think about DLP!!

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