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Soil Testing the Garden


Footballjoe
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Went to Home depot this morning and picked up some veggies: brocolli, cabbage, brussel sprouts, onions, red leaf lettuce, lettuce mix and some squash seeds.

 

I also bought an Electronic Soil Tester. It suppose to test the pH and nutrients of soil "in no time." It cost $19.00. Anyone ever use when of these type testers?

Edited by Footballjoe
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Never used one, it can't hurt...I just don't see the point. It costs so little to get a plant going, that if they don't take, no biggie.

 

I've got to rent a tiller to work my garden soil up this year. Somewhat looking forward to it, and somewhat not. I think I've got another 4 weeks or so before I should do it.

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Never used one, it can't hurt...I just don't see the point. It costs so little to get a plant going, that if they don't take, no biggie.

 

I've got to rent a tiller to work my garden soil up this year. Somewhat looking forward to it, and somewhat not. I think I've got another 4 weeks or so before I should do it.

 

 

I bought a tiller last year from Sears on a clearance. It's still in the box but will be coming out today. :wacko:

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I bought a Ph tester on Ebay last fall. The friggin needle didn't move in my soil, it didn't move in a bucket of compost, it didn't move when I stuck it in a glass of f'n orange juice.

 

There's $10 I'll never get back. . . .

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Went to Home depot this morning and picked up some veggies: brocolli, cabbage, brussel sprouts, onions, red leaf lettuce, lettuce mix and some squash seeds.

 

I also bought an Electronic Soil Tester. It suppose to test the pH and nutrients of soil "in no time." It cost $19.00. Anyone ever use when of these type testers?

 

They don't work, unfortunately. Those cheap pH meters don't work either, and litmus paper is no better for soil pH. pH can be pretty important if the native soil tends to be very acidic or very alkaline. Micro nutirents are important too. Usually something like Osmocote and compost will supply the needed notrogen and trace elements required for optimum plant development, but a pH that is too high or too low can play haovc with some plants.

 

pH is the measurement of free hydrogen ions. H ions are the smallest and most mobile ions in nature. Cheap meters measure ALL free ions, not just the hydrogen. The metal electrode is too conductive. Only a pH meter with a high impedance glass enclosed electrode is accurate, because only hyrdogen ions can penetrate the glass to the actual electrode. It sort of acts like an ion filter.

 

If a landscaper ever tells you he wants to put down lime or sulphate, ask him what the pH is. If he hasn't tested it, he is just charging you for a service your soil may or may not need. They do it because they can... and make money.

 

Every state offers soil testing, usually through a cooperative that is affiliated with a state university. In NY, it's Cornell. For about $15, they can give you a complete and accurate soil test, including micro nutrients. I have a pH meter of my own, ran about $110, but it's very accurate. I use it in my business regularly.

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They don't work, unfortunately. Those cheap pH meters don't work either, and litmus paper is no better for soil pH. pH can be pretty important if the native soil tends to be very acidic or very alkaline. Micro nutirents are important too. Usually something like Osmocote and compost will supply the needed notrogen and trace elements required for optimum plant development, but a pH that is too high or too low can play haovc with some plants.

 

pH is the measurement of free hydrogen ions. H ions are the smallest and most mobile ions in nature. Cheap meters measure ALL free ions, not just the hydrogen. The metal electrode is too conductive. Only a pH meter with a high impedance glass enclosed electrode is accurate, because only hyrdogen ions can penetrate the glass to the actual electrode. It sort of acts like an ion filter.

 

If a landscaper ever tells you he wants to put down lime or sulphate, ask him what the pH is. If he hasn't tested it, he is just charging you for a service your soil may or may not need. They do it because they can... and make money.

 

Every state offers soil testing, usually through a cooperative that is affiliated with a state university. In NY, it's Cornell. For about $15, they can give you a complete and accurate soil test, including micro nutrients. I have a pH meter of my own, ran about $110, but it's very accurate. I use it in my business regularly.

 

apprciate the advice. I will return the tester and buy some more vegies with the $$$$. I have some boxes I got from the Co-op for them to do a soil test but I may not do it. I add compost to my garden every year. I have a nice compost pile now. I was buying it by the truck load from the garden center.

Edited by Footballjoe
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apprciate the advice. I will return the tester and buy some more vegies with the $$$$. I have some boxes I got from the Co-op for them to do a soil test but I may not do it. I add compost to my garden every year. I have a nice compost pile now. I was buying it by the truck load from the garden center.

 

Mix a little Osmocote in with the compost, if I may suggest. It is a slow release nitrogen source, and has all the good trace elements that plants need to better absorb and use the nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous. Trace elements like magnesium and manganese act like catalysts, and help the plant's uptake of all nutrients. Miracle Grow is a fast release source of N... water solulble which is why you need to use it every 2 weeks. Compost is a great source of N, but sometimes lacks the trace elements. Slow release fertilizers need soil microbes to break the long string elements down to smaller ones that the plant can then uptake. That is not actually techinically correct, but it's close enough for this discussion. I'd defer any disortations on fert particle coatings. In short, that is the dif between "extended feeding" and water soluble fertilizers.

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Every state offers soil testing, usually through a cooperative that is affiliated with a state university. In NY, it's Cornell. For about $15, they can give you a complete and accurate soil test, including micro nutrients. I have a pH meter of my own, ran about $110, but it's very accurate. I use it in my business regularly.

 

Rovers dropping the knowledge. I quoted the important part, this is what anyone who is into planting rates will do. I take samples from all over my farm and from my home garden every other year. The pH will not change that much over the year, but the 3 elements will. I tilled in ag lime and some fertilizer into the garden yesterday. Got the greenhouse all set up and will be planting after the threat of freeze is no more. Supposed to snow this coming weekend :wacko: Someone above said no biggie as if they didn't get a yield that their wasn't much $$ invested, well to me time is money so I want to make sure my soil is proper for the best possible yield I can get! Bring on the sunny weather.

Edited by Hat Trick
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Rovers dropping the knowledge. I quoted the important part, this is what anyone who is into planting rates will do. I take samples from all over my farm and from my home garden every other year. The pH will not change that much over the year, but the 3 elements will. I tilled in ag lime and some fertilizer into the garden yesterday. Got the greenhouse all set up and will be planting after the threat of freeze is no more. Supposed to snow this coming weekend :wacko: Someone above said no biggie as if they didn't get a yield that their wasn't much $$ invested, well to me time is money so I want to make sure my soil is proper for the best possible yield I can get! Bring on the sunny weather.

 

 

Is this a greenhouse at your hosue or a large commerical greenhouse. Pics please if it is a home greenhouse.

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I wish I had more time to jump in right now but will echo the bit about getting the state to do it. Hell, here in NC, it's free. We've put a ton of work into our yard in general over the last few years and particularly into our veggie garden this year. I'll post photos when I get a chance.

 

As for greenhouses, we did something super cheap and really effective. Mind you, part of why it was cheap was because I've got old restaurant shelving around that I've gotten for free over time. However, the stuff is surprisingly easy to come by because it can corrode pretty easily and most Health Depts are pretty strict about not letting places use old shelves when they build out. Thus, 90% of it is unusable if claimed from a place that closed down and everyone knows this, so it gets scrapped. None the less.

 

We just wrapped a 5 ft set with 6 mil. plastic sheeting like we were wrapping a present (leaving the bottom open, of course. In the same isle at Home depot where the sheeting is sold, they have these adhesive zippers for cutting into tarps. Super easy to install. It took my wife and I maybe 45 minutes to an hour to put this thing together and viola. We put it in a sunny spot and it's hot as hell in there. $35 in materials and with enough extra sheeting for me to be able to build some hoops for my beds this fall.

 

Also, the rule of thumb that I use is that I only buy plants for things that produce fruit, anything where I actually harvest the plant itself, seeds all the way. Well, that is until this year where we're buying seeds only. In fact, we sourced some great varieties suited for our area and we're putting the word out that we'll be having a plant sale this spring once they've all popped. We're staring 24 each of about 15 different varieties.

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I wish I had more time to jump in right now but will echo the bit about getting the state to do it. Hell, here in NC, it's free. We've put a ton of work into our yard in general over the last few years and particularly into our veggie garden this year. I'll post photos when I get a chance.

 

As for greenhouses, we did something super cheap and really effective. Mind you, part of why it was cheap was because I've got old restaurant shelving around that I've gotten for free over time. However, the stuff is surprisingly easy to come by because it can corrode pretty easily and most Health Depts are pretty strict about not letting places use old shelves when they build out. Thus, 90% of it is unusable if claimed from a place that closed down and everyone knows this, so it gets scrapped. None the less.

 

We just wrapped a 5 ft set with 6 mil. plastic sheeting like we were wrapping a present (leaving the bottom open, of course. In the same isle at Home depot where the sheeting is sold, they have these adhesive zippers for cutting into tarps. Super easy to install. It took my wife and I maybe 45 minutes to an hour to put this thing together and viola. We put it in a sunny spot and it's hot as hell in there. $35 in materials and with enough extra sheeting for me to be able to build some hoops for my beds this fall.

 

Also, the rule of thumb that I use is that I only buy plants for things that produce fruit, anything where I actually harvest the plant itself, seeds all the way. Well, that is until this year where we're buying seeds only. In fact, we sourced some great varieties suited for our area and we're putting the word out that we'll be having a plant sale this spring once they've all popped. We're staring 24 each of about 15 different varieties.

 

 

Sounds nice. I mentioned before that I plan on building a greenhouse. I am in charge of having buildings demolished so I have been salvaging stuff. I have some really nice patio doors and windows, cider block and some 2 x 4's. I hope to start real soon. Heck, I been planning this thing forever and hope I follow through with it. Depending on how far away you live I may be able to salvage some stuff for you to build something. Soetimes it takes a while to get decent stuff but when its free its usually worth the wait.

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saw an article about Chesapeake gardens--quite lengthy, but seems to be good info:

 

http://www.chesapeake.va.us/SERVICES/depar...ter-jun2005.pdf

 

That is a very solid article, but does screw up in one subject area... fungus diseases in turf. A pro can identify at least 5 different turf fungi, while many others can only be ID'd under a microscope. Red thread, dollar spot, rust, pythium blight, snow molds and powdery mildew can all be identified with a visual inspection.

 

Lawns with a history of fungus problems are often better treated with a fungicide preventative application. I agree with the insecticide statements, don't treat until there is a problem and the offending pest identified. Lawns with a history of grub problems should also be inspected... roll the turf back to expose a square foot of roots. Count more than 6 grubs, treat, but treat for grubs two weeks after the adult beetles are flying, late July- early August, not in the spring. Mature, overwintered grubs are much harder to kill in the spring, and those that aren't killed will have more pesticide resistant offspring. Get the babies... grubs in their first instar, just after they hatch. Grub>beetle>mating>lay egss> die> two weeks later, eggs hatch into grubs. Spring grub treatments should only be done when the grub infestation threatens the entire lawn. Chinch bug damage looks just like grub damage. Each has to be treated with a different insecticide.

 

Farmers like Hat Trick always test their soil... yields can make or break them. Still, production can be inceased with more soil management in the home garden.

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Looks nice... square foot gardening has it's advantages. Great for the home owner projects, even for the serious gardener, and I would put you in that class, det. My veggie garden is about 12x4. From that, I produce about 60-70 tomatoes, one cherry tomato plant which I can't even guess as the number of fruits it produces, five kinds of hot peppers from about 10 plants, lettuces, cilantro and basil, green beans, some sweet peppers and scallions. For a garden that crowded, I do manage the soil or it would not produce.

 

What will you grow this year?

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Looks nice... square foot gardening has it's advantages. Great for the home owner projects, even for the serious gardener, and I would put you in that class, det. My veggie garden is about 12x4. From that, I produce about 60-70 tomatoes, one cherry tomato plant which I can't even guess as the number of fruits it produces, five kinds of hot peppers from about 10 plants, lettuces, cilantro and basil, green beans, some sweet peppers and scallions. For a garden that crowded, I do manage the soil or it would not produce.

 

What will you grow this year?

We also have a ton of herbs around the yard as well as fig trees, one jujube tree and some cardoons. For the most part, we only have orimentals in the front yard because of deer but have had luck with onions, garlic, and peppers up there and intend to fill one of our hillsides this summer with peppers.

 

In the veggie garden itself, right now we have lettuce, kale, chard, turnips, radishes, peas on the trellis, strawberries around the trellis bed, beets, potatoes, and onions. We're starting a few varieties of tomatoes and peppers, basil, french pumpkins, muskmelons, and zukes from seeds in the white trash greenhouse we built.

 

We hope to have enough of a yield at one point this summer to do one special dinner at the restaurant featuring all produce grown at our home. But mostly it's just for us to use. The only thing that we just simply can't use enough of and are planning on selling to other restaurants for credit are the herbs. We split up our oregano plant this year and have the equivalent of what would come in 10 1 gallon pots. It goes crazy. Same to a lesser extent with the thyme, lemon thyme, tarragon, marjoram, chives, and rosemary. Well, we actually have a ton of rosemary but so does everyone else, so that doesn't count.

 

As for the soil itself. We bring home and compost veggie scraps from the restaurant as well as have two worm bins. So we feed the soil plenty. The base soil around here is clay and quite acidic but one of the advantages of using raised beds is that you can make your own. So those are filled with some very fertile and ph neutral top soil. The other advantage is that you can keep moles, voles, and gophers out. On the bottom of each square bed, we stapled a metal screen.

Edited by detlef
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That is awesome Det! Make sure to post some pics around June-July.

Thanks, and will do. Right now it's just fun to go out there and see what sprouts are popping up. That's always one of my favorite parts. Pretty much everything is up in some form with the exception of the 2nd lettuce bed that we purposefully waited about a week to plant.

 

I just finished putting together an album of last year's project...

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