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Hotter than Hades!


Rovers
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Stay cool, ignore posts made by a doofus, and remember your age! :lol::tup:

Your advice was spot on.

 

:wacko::tup:

 

Careful, I'll break your hip old man...

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:wacko: This is why you hire some skinny teenager to do it for you. Then you can watch him HER pass out. GOOD TIMES!! GOOD TIMES!!

 

Fixed

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we get a 30 days or so of 100 degree days in dallas, another 3 months in the 90s. And the humidity here is insane.

 

What sucks is when the pool is 95 degrees.

 

I've been to Dallas quite a few times and felt that heat. Truth is, I would not be in the landscapiung biz if I lived down south. But, I suppose it's what one is used to. My sis and her family moved to Austin about 20 years ago, and when they come north for visits even in the fall they complain about the cold. In NY we are just as unprepared for this heat as the south is for a heavy snow.

 

This has been the driest, hottest spring/summer we've ever had. Lawns are brown, water restrictions coming into effect.

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Last day in the triple-digits today in Philly...forecasting 100 on the nose, but with the thick humidity, stepping outside is liteally unhealthy. Warnings posted all over to stay inside. Anytime the outside temperature is enough to actually raise your internal temperature, its time to call it a day, grab some beverage, and hide in the basement.

 

Back down in the lower 90's tomorrow, and into the mid--80's with some rain by Saturday.

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Wrote an email to the NWS regarding the way they calculate the heat index. Interesting that he admitted that the heat index is actually a "best case" calculation, and thereby implies he agrees with me... for outside workers, the heat index number does not reflect their working conditions, it's too low.

 

From NWS:

 

Siting standards for official temperature readings call for reading taken 5 feet +/- 1

foot above the ground. The ground over which the shelter [radiation] is located should be

typical of the surrounding area. A level, open clearing is desirable so the thermometers

are freely ventilated by air flow. Do not install the sensor on a steep slope or in a

sheltered hollow unless it is typical of the area or unless data from that type of site

are desired. When possible, the shelter should be no closer than four times the height of

any obstruction (tree, fence, building, etc.). The sensor should be at least 100 feet from

any paved or concrete surface.

 

With these standards for the actual temperature, it would be very difficult to include

variations due to exposure (direct sun vs shade) or ground cover (grass, vs concrete vs

asphalt) without a base observed temperature to calculate heat index.

 

But, you are very correct in your observation that the heat index as reported on NWS pages

doesn't accurately reflect the heat index in all situations (and may be the "best case"

heat index as opposed to the worst case).

 

 

 

Ron Jones

Web Manager / Internet Projects

NOAA's National Weather Service

Office of the Chief Information Officer

Silver Spring, MD

 

Pretty cool that they responded so quickly. The heat index is calculated to reflect conditions that would produce the lowest possible number. The heat index is actually much higher for people walking down a sidewalk or working near concrete, or on a lawn. As best I can figure, add 6 degrees to the NWS heat index for people in exposed areas.

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Lawns are brown

 

Lawns are brown in Ohio, too. You'd be proud of me, though. Last month I had a service treat the lawn for weeds and fert, had been doing it myself and wasn't getting it done. At the same time, I started cutting the lawn at a full 3". I have the only green lawn on the street.

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Lawns are brown in Ohio, too. You'd be proud of me, though. Last month I had a service treat the lawn for weeds and fert, had been doing it myself and wasn't getting it done. At the same time, I started cutting the lawn at a full 3". I have the only green lawn on the street.

 

That sounds like me. I planned an assault on the weeds this year and decided to try to have a decent lawn by fertilizing it too. But my we have had plenty of rain this year so nobody's lawn is brown yet.

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we get a 30 days or so of 100 degree days in dallas, another 3 months in the 90s. And the humidity here is insane.

 

What sucks is when the pool is 95 degrees.

 

yes-someone needs to invent a pool water cooling system :wacko:

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[/b]

 

yes-someone needs to invent a pool water cooling system :wacko:

 

 

Here's what you do, drain about two feet out of the pool twice a week and fill it with new colder water from the hose.

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Lawns are brown in Ohio, too. You'd be proud of me, though. Last month I had a service treat the lawn for weeds and fert, had been doing it myself and wasn't getting it done. At the same time, I started cutting the lawn at a full 3". I have the only green lawn on the street.

 

If you can find a good lawn treatment company, (some of the nationals, Scotts, TruGreen are good IF they are franchises, not company owned operations) or a qualified local guy, it shouldn't cost much more than doing it yourself, but with better results. I went from mowing at 3 inches to 3.5" two weeks ago. The extra leaf length helps shade the crown of the grass plant, reducing stress. It also helps the grass to "breathe" to use a term other than transpiration. The extra leaf surface aids transpiration, which is the engine that moves nutrients from the roots to the plant for absorption.The extra leaf surface also helps the grass to cool down. It aids photosynthesis too. The down side is it will evaporate more water. As long as you keep the soil moist, no worries.

 

Sounds like you are doing it right... and have a healthy green lawn.

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If you can find a good lawn treatment company, (some of the nationals, Scotts, TruGreen are good IF they are franchises, not company owned operations) or a qualified local guy, it shouldn't cost much more than doing it yourself, but with better results. I went from mowing at 3 inches to 3.5" two weeks ago. The extra leaf length helps shade the crown of the grass plant, reducing stress. It also helps the grass to "breathe" to use a term other than transpiration. The extra leaf surface aids transpiration, which is the engine that moves nutrients from the roots to the plant for absorption.The extra leaf surface also helps the grass to cool down. It aids photosynthesis too. The down side is it will evaporate more water. As long as you keep the soil moist, no worries.

 

Sounds like you are doing it right... and have a healthy green lawn.

 

Scott's and TruGreen are all over the neighborhood. They quoted much higher than I thought they would ($52 per app for a 1/3 acre lot with house on it!). That is why I always did it myself, almost exactly 5,000 sqft of lawn is one small bag. Weedman had a local guy who is really good, liquid for weeds and granular for fert (that's best, heh?) and he did both on the first trip for $40. $40 per app rest of the year.

 

What really pissed me off was when Scott's called back after they realized they didn't get the account and after 2 phone calls dropped it to $27 per application. I realize their truck will be parked next door and they will simply add my lawn to it, so it should have been more competitive right away. I sucked him in a bit and then told him to go away, he should have quoted his best price right initially, a$$hole.

 

Between Weedman and my 16 year old mowing it, I have offically become a 6-pack supervisor for my lawn. That's the promotion I have waiting for since the kid was 6 or 7!!

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Scott's and TruGreen are all over the neighborhood. They quoted much higher than I thought they would ($52 per app for a 1/3 acre lot with house on it!). That is why I always did it myself, almost exactly 5,000 sqft of lawn is one small bag. Weedman had a local guy who is really good, liquid for weeds and granular for fert (that's best, heh?) and he did both on the first trip for $40. $40 per app rest of the year.

 

What really pissed me off was when Scott's called back after they realized they didn't get the account and after 2 phone calls dropped it to $27 per application. I realize their truck will be parked next door and they will simply add my lawn to it, so it should have been more competitive right away. I sucked him in a bit and then told him to go away, he should have quoted his best price right initially, a$$hole.

 

Between Weedman and my 16 year old mowing it, I have offically become a 6-pack supervisor for my lawn. That's the promotion I have waiting for since the kid was 6 or 7!!

 

Generally speaking, the smaller local companies are the better bet than ther nationals like Scotts are. Around here, Scotts and TruGreen put down too much fertilzer. I won't mow those lawns, in fact, I won't take any customer that doesn't sign up for applications as well. I have some customers that are for applications only. $40 is the right price... some guys here get $45. The Scotts people are taught to high ball he price up front. Have you priced fertilizer at the HD's and Lowes lately? Yes, spraying is best for post emeregent weeds and fungus. I prefer granular for fert and insecticides.

 

How many fert apps does Weedman want to do? 4 is the minimum, 5 is better. I use a very low nitrogen fert laced with 14% iron in July. Won't burn the lawn, but the iron will darken it and help green it up under heat stress conditions. Too much nitrogen in the summer will stress the lawn further, and could possibly burn it.

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Generally speaking, the smaller local companies are the better bet than ther nationals like Scotts are. Around here, Scotts and TruGreen put down too much fertilzer. I won't mow those lawns, in fact, I won't take any customer that doesn't sign up for applications as well. I have some customers that are for applications only. $40 is the right price... some guys here get $45. The Scotts people are taught to high ball he price up front. Have you priced fertilizer at the HD's and Lowes lately? Yes, spraying is best for post emeregent weeds and fungus. I prefer granular for fert and insecticides.

 

How many fert apps does Weedman want to do? 4 is the minimum, 5 is better. I use a very low nitrogen fert laced with 14% iron in July. Won't burn the lawn, but the iron will darken it and help green it up under heat stress conditions. Too much nitrogen in the summer will stress the lawn further, and could possibly burn it.

 

Fertilizer at HD or Lowes is about $25-$30 for the small bag I would need, but not nearly as effective. I was referred to them from my BIL's FIL so we both get $20 off the last app of the year. He has a big lawn, $100 a pop, and it looks great. I actually thought about doing it myself but buying the product from John Deere (used to be Lesco?). That product is really expensive, double the stuff at the big boxes.

 

Weedman does 5 applications, but I joined up closer to the time for the second app, so I will only get 4 this year. I was fighting red thread in the front yard (low nitrogen?) and it is gone.

 

Wish I would have asked you before, but it appears as though I did right for my grass!

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Fertilizer at HD or Lowes is about $25-$30 for the small bag I would need, but not nearly as effective. I was referred to them from my BIL's FIL so we both get $20 off the last app of the year. He has a big lawn, $100 a pop, and it looks great. I actually thought about doing it myself but buying the product from John Deere (used to be Lesco?). That product is really expensive, double the stuff at the big boxes.

 

Weedman does 5 applications, but I joined up closer to the time for the second app, so I will only get 4 this year. I was fighting red thread in the front yard (low nitrogen?) and it is gone.

 

Wish I would have asked you before, but it appears as though I did right for my grass!

 

JD (Lesco) isn't even supposed to sell to home owners, although some do. The reason? They will rape you for one bag. Yup, now think... they guy has to put it down, be insured, be liable, and carry a lot of overhead that Joe homeowner loves to forget about. $40 is a very competitive price, and he is likely buying the best stuff. I prefer Lebanon Mesa with iron most of the time, in different formulations. Anderson's is good stuff too.

 

I pay about half of what a home owner would at HD. So I make about $25 per app before overhead. not much, really, when it gets boiled down. Still, it's more profitable than mowing is.

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Brrrr.....

 

____________________________________________________________________

________________________

 

 

4th straight day of record cool weather in S.D.

Thursday, July 8, 2010 at 9:09 p.m.

 

Thursday was the fourth straight day in which the maximum temperature in San Diego tied or set a new low for the date.

 

"This has been the coolest stretch of July weather that I've seen in the 15 years that I've been here," said Mark Moede, a forecaster at the National Weather Service in Rancho Bernardo.

 

Moede said that a persistent trough of low pressure over the West Coast combined with an unusually thick marine layer (up to 3,800 feet) to prevent temperatures from rising to seasonal levels along the entire length of the San Diego coastline.

 

Lindbergh Field in San Diego posted a high today of 64 degrees. The previous lowest maximum temperature for July 8 was 65 degrees, a record set in 1902, when Theodore Roosevelt was president. The average high in San Diego this time of year is 75.

 

"There's a 50-50 chance that Friday also will be a record low maximum at San Diego's Lindbergh Field," said Moede. "The marine layer will be about 200 feet thinner. But it is still going to take awhile for it to burn off at the coast."

 

The marine layer has extended about 10 miles inland. East of that point, temperatures have been normal to high. The mercury hit 90 today in Julian, a town located 4,200 feet high in the mountains. Farther east, in Borrego Springs, it was 106 - or almost 40 degrees hotter than downtown San Diego.

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