Woodworkers....

[rocknrobn26]

How can I clean the wood?

We bought a very nice oak Kitchen table/chairs about 13 years ago. I used something on them and it started to diminish the finish s I stopped. Well now they seem to have a "sticky" finish. We tried Murphy's Oil Soap, but there is still a sticky goo on the chairs. Mostly where one would touch them to move them.

Any suggss??

[aqualung]

Is it built up wax ?

 

Other than that I wouldn't have an idea about it.

[rocknrobn26]

Is it built up wax ?

 

Other than that I wouldn't have an idea about it.

 

No never used wax on them. It's just a scum/sticky chit that I can actually scrape w/ my fingernail. It's only on the top arch of the chairs.

[Doc Holliday]

Sounds like you used something that ate up the original stain. you may have to sand it off and refinish them. without looking at them though it is just a guess.

[Clubfoothead]

I've got a thing of Goo Gone around here...I'll go see if it's safe for wood.

 

Can't find it but if memory serves it was petroleum based so you might want to wait for a better suggestion.

Edited September 27, 2007 by Clubfoothead

[rocknrobn26]

I've got a thing of Goo Gone around here...I'll go see if it's safe for wood.

 

Can't find it but if memory serves it was petroleum based so you might want to wait for a better suggestion.

 

Thanks clubby, thats the chit I used that started to eat the finish off! I couldn't remember at the time I posted!

Thanks though, Bro!

 

That chit works great for chewing gum on cloth/carpeting/cloth car seats, but don't use it on a wooden chair!!!!

['canes2004]

My suggestion is too strip the wood and re-finish. If it's nice oak, this would be the way to go. You can get a stripper at Lowe's or Home Depot or look in your phone book for strippers (don't start ) in your area. We have a place in town that strips the wood bare and then you can re-finish it yourself.

[AtomicCEO]

I've got a thing of Goo Gone around here...I'll go see if it's safe for wood.

 

Can't find it but if memory serves it was petroleum based so you might want to wait for a better suggestion.

 

Goof Off is safe for use on wood according to the bottle I have.

[rocknrobn26]

Goof Off is safe for use on wood according to the bottle I have.

 

Where can I buy that chit??? Never mind I can google!

[rocknrobn26]

My suggestion is too strip the wood and re-finish. If it's nice oak, this would be the way to go. You can get a stripper at Lowe's or Home Depot or look in your phone book for strippers (don't start ) in your area. We have a place in town that strips the wood bare and then you can re-finish it yourself.

 

Thanks, but w, my wimpy arms, it has to be easy or cheap. But I'll keep that in my memory bank.

Thanks canes!

[Skippy]

I know what you are talking about RR and this should not in anyway need stripped. Oil soap is the best bet but if that is not working then you are going to need a good degreaser that works in hot water. I have some stuff at work and I will try to see who makes it and what it is but I know that I used it to clean the wood cabinets in the kitchen and it worked wonders.

[rocknrobn26]

I know what you are talking about RR and this should not in anyway need stripped. Oil soap is the best bet but if that is not working then you are going to need a good degreaser that works in hot water. I have some stuff at work and I will try to see who makes it and what it is but I know that I used it to clean the wood cabinets in the kitchen and it worked wonders.

 

Waitin' on your reply. Thanks!

[nuke'em ttg]

sounds like a great winter project.........take sandpaper and tear into chunks that are only as wide as your 4 strokin fingers and 1 thumb......get case of your favorite Booze.......mix drinks all day...... cross leg over other leg and do only 2 inch strokes with the paper in both directions.........have a piss bucket close by.....better yet have Chavez hold it for ya......that thing will be awesome in 5 months......

[rocknrobn26]

sounds like a great winter project.........take sandpaper and tear into chunks that are only as wide as your 4 strokin fingers and 1 thumb......get case of your favorite Booze.......mix drinks all day...... cross leg over other leg and do only 2 inch strokes with the paper in both directions.........have a piss bucket close by.....better yet have Chavez hold it for ya......that thing will be awesome in 5 months......

 

Tyhe only thing Chavez will be holding in the next 6 months is his child and sexual desires!

 

Next???!!!

[SteelBunz]

I know what you are talking about RR and this should not in anyway need stripped. Oil soap is the best bet but if that is not working then you are going to need a good degreaser that works in hot water. I have some stuff at work and I will try to see who makes it and what it is but I know that I used it to clean the wood cabinets in the kitchen and it worked wonders.

+1 It's just build up from use, RR. Oils and dirt from our hands. Goof Off is safe for finished wood.....amazingly enough. But I generally save that for cleaning splattered paint on wood steps and floors. You'll get quite a buzz using too much at one time....LOL.

 

Skippy might know a better product.....but you can use the Murphy's with a nylon scrunchie pad. Don't press hard at all.....just enough to break down the grime and let the Murphy's work for you. And never let wood air dry.....wipe with a dry towel.

 

Krud Kutter, Simple Green, Orange 95.....any of those in a diluted form will work too. Again....just make sure you wipe with a clean damp rag afterward....then a clean DRY rag. Work in small areas at a time. And any of these work really well if you put them on a damp rag and microwave the rag for a few seconds. Don't burn yourself....but heat up the rag with the degreaser. Oh....and DO NOT do this technique with goof off.

 

Pardon the expression...but it does take some "elbow grease".....anything quicker risks the finish.

[rocknrobn26]

+1 It's just build up from use, RR. Oils and dirt from our hands. Goof Off is safe for finished wood.....amazingly enough. But I generally save that for cleaning splattered paint on wood steps and floors. You'll get quite a buzz using too much at one time....LOL.

 

Skippy might know a better product.....but you can use the Murphy's with a nylon scrunchie pad. Don't press hard at all.....just enough to break down the grime and let the Murphy's work for you. And never let wood air dry.....wipe with a dry towel.

 

Krud Kutter, Simple Green, Orange 95.....any of those in a diluted form will work too. Again....just make sure you wipe with a clean damp rag afterward....then a clean DRY rag. Work in small areas at a time. And any of these work really well if you put them on a damp rag and microwave the rag for a few seconds. Don't burn yourself....but heat up the rag with the degreaser. Oh....and DO NOT do this technique with goof off.

 

Pardon the expression...but it does take some "elbow grease".....anything quicker risks the finish.

 

Good stuff here. We went to Mentards and the guy sugg'ed TSP. Mrs. RR said she had some chit like that. I wish I would have printed out your post but we didn't, Bunzie, but we'll wait and look for the stuff you recc'd!

Thanks, Love! :kissy: And thanks to the rest of you also! :smack: Yeah......I kiss guys also!

rr26

 

Edit for:

 

I have no F'n elbow grease (blown out shoulder), but Mrs. RR does! I'll play foreman.

Edited September 29, 2007 by rocknrobn26

[tbimm]

Good stuff here. We went to Mentards and the guy sugg'ed TSP. Mrs. RR said she had some chit like that. I wish I would have printed out your post but we didn't, Bunzie, but we'll wait and look for the stuff you recc'd!

Thanks, Love! :kissy: And thanks to the rest of you also! :smack: Yeah......I kiss guys also!

rr26

 

Edit for:

 

I have no F'n elbow grease (blown out shoulder), but Mrs. RR does! I'll play foreman.

If this doesnt work let me know. My GF refinishes furniture for a living and may be able to give you all the answers you need!

[H8tank]

Any body familiar with cleaning/treating marine teak?

[SteelBunz]

Good stuff here. We went to Mentards and the guy sugg'ed TSP. Mrs. RR said she had some chit like that. I wish I would have printed out your post but we didn't, Bunzie, but we'll wait and look for the stuff you recc'd!

Thanks, Love! :kissy: And thanks to the rest of you also! :smack: Yeah......I kiss guys also!

rr26

 

Edit for:

 

I have no F'n elbow grease (blown out shoulder), but Mrs. RR does! I'll play foreman.

Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) is really too harsh for something like this...even diluted down to 10%, RR. TSP etches surfaces. It's a very strong base....even in diluted form. While this is great for cleaning masonry....it is NOT recommended for plastics (surrounds), glass, chrome, ceramic tile, etc. After you etch something like that with a chemical....you'll find everything from corrosion to dullness to surfaces getting dirtier quicker and never coming clean again. You'll vastly shorten the lifetime of some of these surfaces.

 

(Sort of like never using Windex on clear plastic? It fogs over time. Very similar effect but on a faster timeline because TSP is that strong.)

 

It's great for use BEFORE applying a new coat or finish of something....ie. TSP your concrete floor before tiling. The etching/degreasing of the concrete creates a good "grab" for the next application....say.....an epoxy floor resin....patio paint.....thinset.

 

But TSP needs to be THOROUGHLY rinsed off of anything you use it on to stop the etching process. And I would never use it on wood where you are trying to preserve an existing finish.

 

Try the other suggestions first RR.

Edited October 1, 2007 by SteelBunz

[SteelBunz]

Any body familiar with cleaning/treating marine teak?

If it's too far gone, H8....you'll just have to strip it, sand it and revarnish. It's the nature of owning a boat with wood accents....LOL.

 

Seriously....if the varnish is flaked off in places or water has gotten under the varnish and fogged the finish....you really just have to strip it and redo it. I do have a favorite stripper....and no....she doesn't work in Vegas. It's 3M's Safest Stripper. You can get it at any ACE hardware I believe. Non-toxic....honest!! No VOC's....they claim you can eat it with no problems....though I haven't tried.

 

But they are GORGEOUS when done. Nothing quite as beautiful as a teak boat!

[darin3]

How can I clean the wood?

[SteelBunz]

[rocknrobn26]

 

You are a dirty person!

[Skippy]

The best that I can come up with is something from 3M that no one seems to remember the name of and Orange something. The Orange something may be what Bunz mentioned up there and if it is then it works great.

[rocknrobn26]

I know what you are talking about RR and this should not in anyway need stripped. Oil soap is the best bet but if that is not working then you are going to need a good degreaser that works in hot water. I have some stuff at work and I will try to see who makes it and what it is but I know that I used it to clean the wood cabinets in the kitchen and it worked wonders.

 

She used Murphy's Oil Soap and a scrubby. I work well enough. The set is 13 years old, so the finish is prolly somewaht worn just from use.

Thanks!

 

 

Any body familiar with cleaning/treating marine teak?

 

Teak is one of the oilyest woods there is, and is not finished w/ varathane/varnish/etc! That much from my woodworking classes I remember!

Check this link, H8:

http://www.boatdocs1.com/teak.html

 

 

Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) is really too harsh for something like this...even diluted down to 10%, RR. TSP etches surfaces. It's a very strong base....even in diluted form. While this is great for cleaning masonry....it is NOT recommended for plastics (surrounds), glass, chrome, ceramic tile, etc. After you etch something like that with a chemical....you'll find everything from corrosion to dullness to surfaces getting dirtier quicker and never coming clean again. You'll vastly shorten the lifetime of some of these surfaces.

 

(Sort of like never using Windex on clear plastic? It fogs over time. Very similar effect but on a faster timeline because TSP is that strong.)

 

It's great for use BEFORE applying a new coat or finish of something....ie. TSP your concrete floor before tiling. The etching/degreasing of the concrete creates a good "grab" for the next application....say.....an epoxy floor resin....patio paint.....thinset.

 

But TSP needs to be THOROUGHLY rinsed off of anything you use it on to stop the etching process. And I would never use it on wood where you are trying to preserve an existing finish.

 

Try the other suggestions first RR.

 

The soap worked OK, but I think the finish is just worn off from use (13 years),. Mrs. RR used the scrubby & Murphy's (see above).

They could prolly use a refinishing, but that job is on the back burner. Gotta look at HW floors, kitchen cabinet re-do (Painting, or Re-facing ), Da Shed (f'n darin won't pick mine up and replace that POS he has eventhough I'd pay him $200 for his trouble ).

Thanks for all the suggs! But ISHMO!