cliaz Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 So my neighbors are in a pickle. They put their house on the market and it sold with in 24 hours. They got their asking price and the buyer did not want help with closing costs. At the same time they found the house they wanted which was 2000k more sq foot then this house plus 2 arc of land in a less crowded area of the state. They managed to get that house for 52k less than it was when it was put on the market. Everything seemed to be going really well. They have to be out of their homes here on June 17th and they close on the new house at the end of this month. Well their home inspector came back and found out that their current house has a radon level of 5.8 in it. I’m not too up on the whole radon level thing but my understanding is that is dangerously high. So now they don’t know what to do. They have kids so they are really worried that even if you put some venting system in place to keep the radon levels down low that it can and will still screw up the kids. Anyone ever have to deal with this? Currently we might just offer to have them move in with us if they can’t move into their new home. I feel bad for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FWmaker Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Cliaz, the way you wrote that, it seems that the house they are selling has the radon problem. If that's the case, don't you need to get your house checked since you are neighbors? And also, if that's the case, does it become the new owners problem? Or is it still your friends? If it is the new house, I can't give you info as I'm as clueless as you on the radon issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vicky Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 (edited) I was wondering the same thing. If its the current house with the radon problem, get yours checked!! But I'm sure you guys would be just as worried about your own kids if that were the case. Did the house inspector have any suggestions? Edited May 16, 2007 by Vicky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikesVikes Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Not an expert by any means, but I've heard that radon comes up from cracks in the basement or openings in the house foundation. brief info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliaz Posted May 16, 2007 Author Share Posted May 16, 2007 Sorry. No sleep last night. I meant the house that they are buying has the radon. my bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spain Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 (edited) I wouldnt buy the house until this issue was settled. They can move their stuff into storage and rent an apartment or Corporate Suites type place until they get it corrected or find another house. Edited May 16, 2007 by spain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isleseeya Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 I could not post link so I am cutting and pasting what I found on a site when I googled...good luck • If I have radon, how do I get rid of it? f Radon in the ground is drawn indoors by the pressure differential between the inside (lower pressure) and the outside (higher pressure) of the house or dwelling. Radon reduction methods fall into two basic categories--prevention of radon entrance into the dwelling and removal of the radon once it has gotten into the dwelling. Sealing the cracks and other openings in the foundation is the first step of most radon reduction methods, however, this should not be considered the only step necessary. Sealing cracks and openings is most effective if it is used in conjunction with other mitigation techniques. One of the most popular methods of mitigation is known as sub-slab depressurization or suction. The sub-slab depressurization method removes the radon-laden air from beneath the foundation and vents it to the outside of the house via a pipe, which has one end installed through the foundation into the gravel below, and terminating the other end outside the shell of the house. Another method is known as sub-membrane depressurization and is used more in sub-areas (basements and crawlspaces that have dirt floors. This method uses a plastic vapor barrier through which the bottom end of the mitigation pipe is run. Yet another method is to terminate the bottom end of the mitigation pipe into the hollow core of a block foundation wall. This method is known as block wall depressurization.f Learn more about reducing the risks of radon. • Who should I call for radon mitigation? f At U.S. Inspect, we do not have a policy of recommending individuals or companies to perform repairs or mitigation, as this would be a conflict of interest. However, every state has a radon office that can provide valuable resources for consumers, Realtors, building contractors and industry professionals.f For a list of state radon contacts, go to www.radongas.org/state.htm. • How much does mitigation/remediation cost? f The actual cost of radon mitigation or remediation depends on several factors, including the age and style of the dwelling. The cost to have a contractor install a mitigation system can vary from $500 to as much as $2,500 or more. The average cost for mitigation is $1,200. • How does a radon mitigation system work? f A sub-slab depressurization system works by bypassing the negative pressure inside a house, using a continuous air channel that runs from the area beneath the basement slab or sealed crawlspace vapor barrier up to and through the finished roofline. This air channel usually consists of the largest diameter PVC piping that will fit inside of a finished wall (usually a 3-inch inside diameter). Somewhere along this piping will be a continuously running, electrically driven fan that creates a negative pressure in the sub-slab area and pulls the radon-contaminated air through the house without it getting into the breathable air. A common place for the radon exhaust pipe to be installed is in the sump pump pit. If there is no sump pump pit in the basement area, a section of the basement slab will have to be removed for the bottom of the pipe to be installed. • Is my home in a high radon area ? f The radon level can vary from house to house and is not a predictable situation.f Take a look at these radon potential and EPA radon maps to determine if your home is located in a "high" radon area. Return to the Top of the Page lso Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thews40 Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 My friend went through this when he sold his house, and all he had to do was put in a fan in the basement. I think the whole radon issue is a overblown, but I doubt it would be too hard to manage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliaz Posted May 16, 2007 Author Share Posted May 16, 2007 interesting.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bengal Mania Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 One house we SOLD had a slightly elevated level (don't remember numbers), was corrected by US by just sealing the sump pump lid tight. Last two houses we bought had fans isntalled w/ pipe running under slab or crawlspace. If yer buddy got 52k off the asking price on other house, tell him to spend the $1500 (or write it in the final deal w/ that seller) and get on w/ it. I wouldn't give up the sale of his current house got over this. I don't believe radon is a big deal, but that's just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdrudge Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 How did the home inspector measure the 5.8? If it was just a one time few second sampling, I'd be suspect on it's validity. According to here, the most accurate tests are over a longer period, such as 90 days. Other suggestions it makes are: * Choose a room that is used regularly, but do not use the kitchen, bathroom, laundry room or a hallway. * Sometimes two devices are used simultaneously or two 48-hour tests are done back-to-back to help establish average radon levels and to verify that devices are working properly. * Keep windows and doors in the tested room shut except for normal entry and exit. For tests lasting less than four days, make sure windows and outside doors are closed for at least 12 hours before beginning. * Do not do short term radon tests during times of high humidity, severe storms, or when winds are high. * Place the testing device at least 20 inches above the floor so that it is out of drafts and high humidity and will not be disturbed. * Follow the manufacturer's instructions to record starting and ending times. Reseal the tester package and return it to the lab for analysis. The home inspection we had when we purchased our current home was only a few hours. I don't think that is going to be long enough to get an accurate picture. If he left it there longer, then this may not apply. The cost for the venting can be a little pricey, but I wouldn't let that stop the purchase, especially if it's what they want and they got a great price. A radon level of 4 puts the risk of getting cancer in a non-smoker at 2 in 1000 (at least according to that article). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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