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Huddle Vehicle Experts Unite!


Caveman_Nick
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I just picked my truck up from the dealership a little while ago. I had to have a couple of parts replaced because it wasn't starting.

 

It's a diesel 2001 F-350 with a 7.3L moose of an engine.

 

I have had a few namby-pamby problems with it such as starting issues and headlight issues, but mostly it's been a good truck. The starting issues really just had to do with age, needing new batteries, carbon build-up on the plugs, dead relay, etc. All solved now.

 

BUT, the service rep at the dealer tells me that my oil pan and fuel lines need to be replaced. Apparently they are starting to rot and be a risk. This doesn't strike me as far fetched, living in NE and the truck having seen 8 winters now.

 

The problem is this: Apparently in order to replace the oil pan and the fuel line in this vehicle (maybe for all vehicle, I dunno) they need to lift the engine out of the truck. That means at the very least detaching it from the transmission, and who knows what else. This strikes me as the kind of repair to be very concerned about. The kind that can create a chain reaction of problems that could be very costly.

 

Does anyone have experience with having this kind of work done, or better yet with doing this kind of work? Are my concerns justified? The repair is going to cost me around $1,600. That kind of $$ makes me wonder if the risks aren't too high, and if I should start thinking about trading the beast in for a new truck.

 

Any help would be appreciated!

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First of all diesels don't have plugs, unless you were referring to glow plugs.

 

My feeling on a vehicle is that if it isn't broke don't fix it.

 

For $1600 wait until it fails then take it in

 

That's what I was referring to. They had to be cleaned. Like I said, minor incidental stuff that builds up over 8 years.

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Oil pan and fuel lines. :wacko: Sound like money grub bullpoop to me, I agree with Rebellab.

 

and if I should start thinking about trading the beast in for a new truck.
Call me cynical, but ..do you think they want to sell new trucks?

I have never heard of an oil pan rotting. I have an 89 150 pan is still solid, original fuel lines also, even if a line did fail , they are quite cheap.

Edited by Front Row
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If you aren't leaking oil then I wouldn't worry about the oil pan. If the fuel lines are truly getting dry and brittle it may be worth replacing but should be cheap.

 

I no longer take my cars to dealerships because they are all ripoffs in my experience. Find another good mechanic in the area and get a 2nd opinion.

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If you aren't leaking oil then I wouldn't worry about the oil pan. If the fuel lines are truly getting dry and brittle it may be worth replacing but should be cheap.

 

I no longer take my cars to dealerships because they are all ripoffs in my experience. Find another good mechanic in the area and get a 2nd opinion.

 

Good advice IF you can find a mechanic you can trust.

 

If you like your truck hang onto it. It can sense your disturbed state of mental awareness every time you get in it. So start talking to it. "Good ole truck! I love ya like a son!" "Let's go run over somethin' and make a lot of noise!"

 

Trucks love to be talked to. They also enjoy it when you have sex in them. :wacko:

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Apparently in order to replace the oil pan and the fuel line in this vehicle (maybe for all vehicle, I dunno) they need to lift the engine out of the truck.

 

Sounds fishy to me.

 

Take your truck to a diesel shop that specializes in pickups (not sure they're available in your area) and have them go through your truck.

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I no longer take my cars to dealerships because they are all ripoffs in my experience. Find another good mechanic in the area and get a 2nd opinion.

Yep. Has some apparently "crucial" work done on my vehicle. Took about 2 hrs, got charged $400+ in labor. I was like "what, you had 4 f*cking guys working on it for the whole 2 hrs?"

 

 

Douchebags. I was stupid; I have a good independent shop run by a good guy that I trust. I'll never leave him again.

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Yep. Has some apparently "crucial" work done on my vehicle. Took about 2 hrs, got charged $400+ in labor. I was like "what, you had 4 f*cking guys working on it for the whole 2 hrs?"

 

Here's the deal on that. Dealers get a flat rate on repairs. So if the book says it takes 8 hours, you pay for 8 hours. If it takes the tech 2 hours to do the job, he still makes 8 hours. So for a tech, it's a great deal because if he is really good at his job he can make some REALLY good money. My father in law is a tech for a dealer in town.

 

Bad for the consumer though, as you found out.

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I have never in my life heard of an oil pan rotting. The first thing you do is to get a shop light and slide you ass underneath that truck and inspect the oil pan. Look for signs of rust where it bolts up to the underside of the engine and where the drain plug is. More importantly, look for signs of oil leakage. Once you've determined that neither is present, take photos of the area, present them to the service manager at the dealership that tried to screw you and explain how not only have they lost you as a customer for life, but that how you will bad mouth their service department until the day you die. Take a poop on his desk and leave knowing that you've done the right thing.

 

Seriously though, that is a load of crap. Don't do anything until you see signs of an oil leak.

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Diesel engines don't run as hot as gas engines. Maybe the oil pan doesn't get as hot to burn off the crap built on it. I'll bet that any repairs on that big boat will cost much more than your typical vehicle.

 

Fwiw, my wife tells me I'm not an expert mechanic.

Edited by MikesVikes
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FORD: 1999-2006 E-Series, F-Super Duty

2000-2005 Excursion

2000-2006 F-650, F-750

 

 

 

This article supersedes TSB 03-21-46 to update the affected engines and vehicle model years.

 

ISSUE:

Some vehicles equipped with the 7.3L or 6.0L Diesel Engine may exhibit engine oil pan corrosion when operated in high salt content/corrosive environments. If the customer is concerned with this cosmetic issue, the following procedure may be used to resolve the condition.

 

ACTION:

Inspect the oil pan. If corrosion is detected use Motorcraft High Temp Anti-Corrosion Coating, Part Number PM-13-A, to service. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

 

SERVICE PROCEDURE

 

Clean the oil pan off with a solvent to remove any dirt and oil. Using a 3" angle grinder with a 36 grit disc, grind off all loose corrosion. Blow off with air. Wash the pan with soap and water and let dry. Brush the anti-corrosion coating on the oil pan. Allow coating to dry fully before operating the vehicle.

 

Seems like you could do this yourself to extend the life of your pan. Kind of funny how Ford refers to it as a cosmetic issue.

 

Several forums/shops also recommend this : POR 15

 

Perhaps a local shop would do the grind and application for cheap. I would definitely avoid pulling the engine if at all possible.

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Seems like you could do this yourself to extend the life of your pan. Kind of funny how Ford refers to it as a cosmetic issue.

 

Several forums/shops also recommend this : POR 15

 

Perhaps a local shop would do the grind and application for cheap. I would definitely avoid pulling the engine if at all possible.

 

 

Thanks for the info :wacko:

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