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Thinking of building a 3 hole par-3 golf course


TimC
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I built a putting green on my property once. To build and maintain a green is trickier and more expensive than you think. The green should be graded and rolled to get the major bumps out. Then comes the seeding, watering, fertilizing, and weeding. Golf course greens require special mowers that trim the grass super-short. It takes alot of work to do it right. .

 

Oh, I agree. A nice plush one is possible. I have a ton of big lawn equipment. As you say, the maintenance is the biggest issue. I'm worried I'd have to water it 3 times daily and I'm not sure about being able to do that without a sprinkler system. A sprinkler system would probably crush the start-up budget. It's one of those options I'd like to do later. Just have two heads spray across the green. I'm wondering if a few long garden hoses or just tractoring the water out may be the answer. I've done a little research on the special mowers required and you can find used ones around $1k.

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Tim, going to work now(at a GC) so no time to type much. Can be done, but there is more to it than throwing some seed out on graded land. We are currently re-doing two greens and three tee areas. I should be able to give you some help. Awsome idea, lots of work, lots of enjoyment. Back at ya later. :wacko:

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Tim, going to work now(at a GC) so no time to type much. Can be done, but there is more to it than throwing some seed out on graded land. We are currently re-doing two greens and three tee areas. I should be able to give you some help. Awsome idea, lots of work, lots of enjoyment. Back at ya later. :wacko:

 

I knew I'd find someone here sooner or later. :tup:

 

I'm just thinking a simple tee area. Maybe even just a box with some fake turf like a driving range so I don't have to deal with repairing divots. I'm thinking the tee box is the simplest thing. That is just grading and throwing down seed if I decide not to go driving range fake.

 

The green is the part I'm trying to determine the best way to go. I figure I can go from Rebellab's idea of just throwing down some sand and making due to Chargerz plush greens. I'm not looking at any traffic close to a golf course on 'em, of course. The Masters have no worries from me. Just me and the dogs a couple of times a week. The land naturally slopes downhill so drainage is good. I go by a "Yardworks" store (gravel, dirt) in my pickup home from work everyday so picking up supplies isn't a big deal. They know me when I drive in because of all the landscaping. I can haul some serious dirt.

 

Thanks for anything you have to type up for where I should start heading in the right direction. I can research the heck out of it if I get an expert's opinion on which way to go. :tup:

 

 

 

 

 

I'm going to try to do 2 greens at once. The one by the house and the one by the road. They are easily accessible. I'm going to build a simple cart path straight line between them and leave the area as natural as possible outside of the actual green.

 

Step #1 is to clear a "cart path" to the general green area on the hole by the road to be able to start bringing in supplies.

 

Step #2 is to lay crush and run on the "cart paths" to not get stuck.

 

I'm gonna try to start working on that over the winter so I can get serious in Spring, if all goes well.

Edited by TimC
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I am very serious. I plan on doing all the work I can possibly do myself...I love landscaping but am still squarely a beginner and amateur. I'm weird that I would get as much enjoyment out of doing this as I would with the finished project. I'm mainly thinking what would be the lowest maintenance of decent greens. I've played some pretty ratty courses in my day and am thinking of greens on par with those. I stopped playing golf about 15 years ago and used to play at least twice a week. The courses just got too busy and I stopped having the time for 6+ hour rounds. The only course we have around here is a private 9-hole course that looks decent but I've been wondering what do with these woods for 4 years now. I think it'd be great exercise to grab a pitching wedge and putter after work.

 

If you have any resources, I'd really appreciate it. I'd prefer to do it once (unlike most of my other projects) instead of twice after realizing my mistakes. :wacko:

 

Don't forget a few sand traps! They make for good practice too and really add to the beauty of a hole, IMO.

 

I'd at least try building and maintaining a real green on the first hole. Just be very patient in getting a smooth surface and the undulations you want before seeding. You can get a manual greens mower pretty cheap and it's good exercise for the ticker. :tup:

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My retired neighbors are seriously nosy and weird.

I don't know if the guy who stopped playing golf 15 years ago and is now planning on building a golf course in his back yard should be throwing stones while living in that glass house. :wacko:

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I knew I'd find someone here sooner or later. :tup:

 

I'm just thinking a simple tee area. Maybe even just a box with some fake turf like a driving range so I don't have to deal with repairing divots. I'm thinking the tee box is the simplest thing. That is just grading and throwing down seed if I decide not to go driving range fake.

 

The green is the part I'm trying to determine the best way to go. I figure I can go from Rebellab's idea of just throwing down some sand and making due to Chargerz plush greens. I'm not looking at any traffic close to a golf course on 'em, of course. The Masters have no worries from me. Just me and the dogs a couple of times a week. The land naturally slopes downhill so drainage is good. I go by a "Yardworks" store (gravel, dirt) in my pickup home from work everyday so picking up supplies isn't a big deal. They know me when I drive in because of all the landscaping. I can haul some serious dirt.

 

Thanks for anything you have to type up for where I should start heading in the right direction. I can research the heck out of it if I get an expert's opinion on which way to go. :lol:

 

 

 

 

 

I'm going to try to do 2 greens at once. The one by the house and the one by the road. They are easily accessible. I'm going to build a simple cart path straight line between them and leave the area as natural as possible outside of the actual green.

 

Step #1 is to clear a "cart path" to the general green area on the hole by the road to be able to start bringing in supplies.

 

Step #2 is to lay crush and run on the "cart paths" to not get stuck.

 

I'm gonna try to start working on that over the winter so I can get serious in Spring, if all goes well.

 

 

So, discussed this with my boss today(I'm only second in command) and he had some good points as he has built a few courses from scratch.

Starting with the paths are a good idea. Cut out more trees than you think you should, especially around the greens. As a par 3 only waste area in between tee to green is okay and less maintenance. You will need to maintain a groomed area at least 20 yards around the green though, so pitching/chipping can be done.

 

1)Get an idea as to your soil type, this is key and doesn't cost much and will save you a ton in the long run. Soil tests reveal all sorts of stuff including pre existing diseases etc. You can do this over the winter and be ready to roll in the spring with good knowledge going in.

 

2)Go to your local or favorite course and run this idea by the Superintendent or his Asst. Sup. They can tell you the best mix of seed for greens to thrive in your area. This is very important. Most of us working in this Biz do it out of love and are basically good old boys whom like to get their hands dirty persay. That and free golf :wacko: You should get a lot of help from them. If some guy acts too good go to another. Remember though, these people know GC landscaping and are a much better sounding board than a Professional Landscaper with no GC experience.

 

3) Sand greens need petroleum or like product, much like a path or a road to stay firm and in shape. You would need to buy a roller for the upkeep of these. Not my preference, but they work in places with extreme weather changes. Though they dont putt as true as grass and will never give the speed needed consistently.

 

4)Grass greens need plenty of love but are worth it if feasible in your area for year round health. Again a GC Sup in your area will help a ton with this one. You will need a "reel" type mower for these and need to keep that reel very sharp by backlapping them, which is actually pretty easy. I may be able to get you a used one for fairly cheap, maybe the cost of shipping and a beer :tup: You also may want to go with sodding these if impatient. Sod farms have greens grade turf that takes a shorter cut right away. If you go the seeding route, it will be cheaper, but will take longer to get to playing condition and will inevitably have thin spots etc. until grown in. Either way be sure to use plenty of sand underneath for proper drainage and ease of grading and forming.

 

This should get you started in the right direction and give you an idea what you're getting into for sure. I will do some research of your area in the meantime and continue to pick minds around me. As I said it can be done and if you don't mind maintaning it after the fact(which really is most of the work) than your good to go and will have a blast, let alone the envy of all your friends, neighbors and fellow Huddlers alike :lol:

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so effing redneck I love it!!

 

maybe use 4 wheelers instead of golf carts and the beer cart girls can be all the messicans and relatives in the hood.

 

dress code: jean shorts and wife-beaters required

 

I think you should build a whiskey distillery and a hoorhouse instead - turn a bit of a profit in these troubling times

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So, discussed this with my boss today(I'm only second in command) and he had some good points as he has built a few courses from scratch.

Starting with the paths are a good idea. Cut out more trees than you think you should, especially around the greens. As a par 3 only waste area in between tee to green is okay and less maintenance. You will need to maintain a groomed area at least 20 yards around the green though, so pitching/chipping can be done. Agreed. However when analyzing the trees, pay close attention to 2 factors. First, you want at least 10-20 feet from the EDGE of the tree drip line to avoid root damage under your greens. Second, the majority of the trees you need to eliminate are from the southeast to southwest of each green. Northerly trees will not give you shadow issues, which will kill your grass.

 

1)Get an idea as to your soil type, this is key and doesn't cost much and will save you a ton in the long run. Soil tests reveal all sorts of stuff including pre existing diseases etc. You can do this over the winter and be ready to roll in the spring with good knowledge going in. Agreed. You can do a tissue sample from some of your native grasses as well, which will give you a full background analysis of the elements available. This will also give you a good idea of what chemical treatments/herbicide/fertilizer to use to complimnet your soil composition

 

2)Go to your local or favorite course and run this idea by the Superintendent or his Asst. Sup. They can tell you the best mix of seed for greens to thrive in your area. This is very important. Most of us working in this Biz do it out of love and are basically good old boys whom like to get their hands dirty persay. That and free golf :wacko: You should get a lot of help from them. If some guy acts too good go to another. Remember though, these people know GC landscaping and are a much better sounding board than a Professional Landscaper with no GC experience. Ehh . . to me this is based on your expectations. Most grass cultivars for courses need a lot of attention and especially constant watering. If you wont do irrigation, you dont need a specialized grass blend. In fact, since ya proabbly wont be rolling at 10 on the stimpmeter for US open greens, an OLDER cultivar like pentcross (that was bred in the 50's) might work out well. Plus a lot of the new blends are finicky as hell when it comes to chemical applications, and you DONT want to get too into that nonsense.

 

3) Sand greens need petroleum or like product, much like a path or a road to stay firm and in shape. You would need to buy a roller for the upkeep of these. Not my preference, but they work in places with extreme weather changes. Though they dont putt as true as grass and will never give the speed needed consistently. Topdressing where you want to grow your greens will also help with drainage and ventilation for your grass. Come to think of it . . unless you cut some "breezeways" for the air to dry and norish your greens, they are bound to fail anyways. Pay a very close eye on where the prevailing winds blow from when orientating your line of play

 

4)Grass greens need plenty of love but are worth it if feasible in your area for year round health. Again a GC Sup in your area will help a ton with this one. You will need a "reel" type mower for these and need to keep that reel very sharp by backlapping them, which is actually pretty easy. I may be able to get you a used one for fairly cheap, maybe the cost of shipping and a beer :tup: You also may want to go with sodding these if impatient. Sod farms have greens grade turf that takes a shorter cut right away. If you go the seeding route, it will be cheaper, but will take longer to get to playing condition and will inevitably have thin spots etc. until grown in. Either way be sure to use plenty of sand underneath for proper drainage and ease of grading and forming. Agree with the above. In fact, you could probably get a used greens mower/roller from a local club for very cheap. Sod also will cost a hell of a lot more.

 

This should get you started in the right direction and give you an idea what you're getting into for sure. I will do some research of your area in the meantime and continue to pick minds around me. As I said it can be done and if you don't mind maintaning it after the fact(which really is most of the work) than your good to go and will have a blast, let alone the envy of all your friends, neighbors and fellow Huddlers alike :tup:

 

Added some bolded stuff to hugh's very accurate post.

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Installing and maintaining a putting green is perhaps a bit more than you think you are bargaining for. First, you MUST have a sprinkler system, or don't even bother. Greens are cut so short, often bentgrass varieties here in the NE, they have to be watered twice a day, morning and evening. Then, you will need to apply fungicides, insecticides, fert, get specail herbicides for keeping the bentgrass on the green and not on the fringe... just the short fairways will keep you very busy, the greens? OMG. Just the cost of that specialized mower is freakin scary.

 

Do you know you likely need some sort of pesticide license from the state to pull this off? How about zoning?

 

I have owned a landscaping company and have some formal horticultural training. I haven't worked a golf course but know a lot of people who have. My suggestion would be something like this for the greens:

 

http://www.puttinggreensturf.com/home.php

 

The rest of the course will still run you ragged just to maintain it, and you still need regular irrigation. A do it yourself irrigation system isn't that hard to install. It's doable, and if you do it yourself, very inexpensive to maintain. Trust me... artificial greens would be the way to go here. Much more expensive up front, but cheaper and far easier in the long run to maintain. People would be looking for a quick golf fix, artificial greens won't make them shy away. I suppose you know you will need to rent 9 irons and putters for your golfers use.

 

I have seen one place like this, and it has been around forever, but it's at a tourist site, Jones Beach. Vandalism, either intentional or otherwise will be an issue with real grass greens as well. Are there any tourist locations nearby? Golf courses?

 

You could skirt some things like a pesticide license with artificial greens as well. You won't need a licesne to fertilize the fairways. The entire set of rules changes once you open it up to the public, or is this just for your use? Entierly different operations and laws.

Edited by Rovers
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Okay thanks for the help on the stuff to research! :tup:

 

I'm going to start with a putting green on the hole next to the house. Later, i'll get back into the woods. I was thinking of doing a "raised" sloping green by bringing in some of that good topsoil. This will help with drainage IMO. I'm going to start with sand and then dump the soil on top. I'm not going to try and use my soil.

 

Hugh B, if you see a deal on an old pushmower, definitely keep me in mind! :wacko:

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my parents have a much smaller yard in san francisco, but my father build a little chipping green out there a good 30 years ago. he created a 4 hole green, sand trap, and two areas to chip from. he also put up a large net for his irons and woods. for ease he used cement and turf for the green. here is a limited pic...used to be very well kept.

 

 

edit: changing pic..........

 

 

#1

 

 

#2

 

 

#3

 

 

edit: i am going home in 2 weeks. will take some better pics for you.

Edited by Bier Meister
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Nice Bier. Cement and turf, huh? :wacko:

 

I still think I'm going to try a natural green. If it fails, I can always go the artificial route. IMO, it'd be easier to go from dirt to fake than the other way around.

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my parents have a much smaller yard in san francisco, but my father build a little chipping green out there a good 30 years ago. he created a 4 hole green, sand trap, and two areas to chip from. he also put up a large net for his irons and woods. for ease he used cement and turf for the green. here is a limited pic...used to be very well kept.

 

 

edit: changing pic..........

 

 

#1

 

 

#2

 

 

#3

 

 

edit: i am going home in 2 weeks. will take some better pics for you.

 

 

 

Seems easier and all you gotta do is blow it off with a leaf blower. what kind of padding is underneath? and does it dry out well?

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Seems easier and all you gotta do is blow it off with a leaf blower. what kind of padding is underneath? and does it dry out well?

 

 

cement and astro-turf. as we live in a damper area in sf, it has held up very well for 30 yrs.

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